I inherited a 3hp belt drive Craftsman that’s at least 5 years old, but the blade isn’t exactly perpendicular to the body. I don’t see any obvious adjustments, but maybe I’m missing something.
HELP!!
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Replies
Does the table move?
Align the blade to the miter slot. there should be bolts holding the trunnion to the underside of the table.
Wait ... if the blade isn't perp to the body ... does that mean that you get get the blade to stand up 90 degrees to the top? then there is a set screw somewhere, that is stopping the trunnion from moving sall the way. Some saws the set screw is accessible through the top, some you have to reach under. Or irt could be the screw threads on the tilt mechanism are crudded up with sawdust or rust or both.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Edited 3/24/2008 9:27 pm ET by FastEddie
the carridge that holds the blade and arbor moves...
held to the bottom of the table top by 4 bolts....
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Go to this page and download the ts2412 manual. Bet you a cold one that it looks like this. Emerson made the older Craftsman saws before they went Ryobi IIRC.
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Literature-Search/EN/index.htm
Thanks for your help! I had to download several manuals before finding one that helped me, but you were right. A Cold One would be underpaying you, so I'll toss in a bag of beer nuts. You just have to come to Glendale, California...
Would you mind telling me which one you downloaded that helped?I also have an old craftsman table saw with a similar problem.
The first precept was never to accept a thing as true until I knew it as such without a single doubt. [Rene Descartes on scientific method]
old craftsman table saw
seein' as how I have 3 of the old CM 10" cast iron table saws, here's how I set them up.
1. adjust fence to be parallel to the slots in the top.
2. take off the blade - if ANY looseness in the shaft replace the bearings ($5 online, but NOT from Sears). If you have a metal lathe at the farm, true up the arbor while you replace the bearings, otherwise after bearings replaces, run the arbor and true up the face of the flange with a mill file (takes a little time and patience, don't use too much pressure)
3. 4 bolts hold the blade carriage to the top, loosen those so the carriage just barely moves when you tap it with a hammer - install a straight blade.
4. Check runout on the blades, redo last part of #2 if detectable runout. Be sure runout is not due to the blade.
5. Tap carriage until blade parallel to fence and slots. Tighten bolts - that's about it.
#2 is the difficult part without a metal lathe unless you luck out and have a true flange on the arbor.
download a manual at SearsPartsDirect.com, does not have much in it except diagram.
Hey, BossHog.Ts2424 something is the one that had the details that were helpful.
Glad to help. Will call out to the airport and have them fuel up the Lear Jet to come get the beer and nuts.
Which one did fit? I had the ts2424 and saw that the 3612 was out so I took it back to HD. They credited me $50 off and ended up getting a great deal. Both saws are great in my opinion. The fence is much better on the 3612.
I believe the 3612 was the last Emerson built Ridgid saw.
If it's a belt driven contractor type you might be interested in a product called PALs (about $20). They attach to the rear truntion bolts an allow for a fine adjustment via set screws...never quite got the hang of doing a fine alignment with a hammer and block of wood. PALs are from Online Industries and I got a 'how to' video with it. Also recommended and showed how and where to install grease fittings for smooth blade up and down adjustment.
Ditto on the PALS.Its a part which costs $2 to make, Its worth $200 in time, and they sell it for $20.Loosen up the trunion nuts align blade, clamp in place, and re-tighten. Its that "easy."Actually, a pain the friggin #### and might take you an hour or more, depending on how much saw dust gets in your eyes. With the pals, you just adjust the alignment with a socket.Regards, Scooter"I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Did you do the grease fittings?
Any thoughts on a reasonable rip fence for the old Craftsman?
I don't know what you mean by grease fittings. The Trunion Bolts cause the whole assembly to wobble around and one aligns the blade with straight 1x4's clamped parallel to the miter slot. Its a PITA. I'm not real picky about a fence, except I like it high enough and thin enough to clamp accessories such as auxillary fences and hold downs.Regards, Scooter"I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
THe PALS guy sent me a video on installing grease fittings on the blade raising/lowering mechanism for squeak free 1 finger operation.
JIMMIEM
I have a real old direct drive Craftsman. It was old when I bought it at an auction in 1980.
Fence adjustment was always measure the front and the back and then lock it down.
This winter I bought the T2 30" fence from Delta and installed it on my saw. Cost $150. Some of the best money I have ever spent.
I added about 15" of formica covered plywood to the right of the blade to fill out the area where the new bars extend.
I feel like I have a Unisaw now. It's wonderful. Smooth adjustment and locks down perfect.
The extra space to the right of the blade is great when I am sawing alot of little parts.
I'll see if I can post a picture later.
Rich
JIMMIEM
Here are some pics of new fence on old saw.
Rich
Thank You.
Did the fence cost more than the saw?
Jim
The saw cost $225 in 1980. The replacement motor was $350 about 10 years later.
The fence was $150.
Rich
Thank You,
I've been hemming and hawing over buying an aftermarket rip fence for years. I'll check out the Delta. I had bought a Sears upgrade to the original fence but it's not great. I guess you really do get what you pay for.
Thank You for the info and pictures.
The Ridgid is no Biesmyer but pretty good.
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=ridgid+fence&category0=
Will the fence system fit on any size saw? Mine is 27 inches front to back and 40 inches long (top plus side extensions). It's a Craftsman from the late 70's. Looks like yours except I've got the stamped side extensions.
Thank You
Jim
My saw is 27" x 40" with cast aluminum wings.
The holes on the fence rails are from the left at 3 1/4", 10 3/8", 26 3/8", 33 1/2" and 41".
The hole at 41" is in the space of my new wood extention. There is probably another one on the wood extention now that i think of it. I didn't move the fence and look under it.
I could only use the holes in the aluminum wings to mount my rails to the saw.
With stamped wings that may not be strong enough. Then you woould have to drill new holes.
The package said it fits most saws. I made mine work. I bought it at a local tool store so I could return it if it didn't work.
Best of luck.
Rich
Quick question. I bought the Delta T30. I have a Craftsman with the stamped wings.
I've drilled the Delta rail to match the holes in the cast iron part of the table saw but the bolt heads on the wings don't let the rail get flush to the table. The table depth is 27 inches (I called Delta and their tables are 27 inches also and that is what the fence is designed to fit on). Is there enough front to back play so that the fence will attach if the rail is away from the table by the thickness of the bolt heads on the wings or do you think I will have to drill out the rail to accomodate the bolt heads? The rear rail will will be similar, i.e. wing bolt heads.
Thank You
jimmiem
Boy that was quick.
I just opened BT and the 1st thread was the TS alignment. i hadn't even read the 1st post when your message arrived.
I don't know if there is enough play. I will take a look when I get back to the shop.
The back does not clamp on, it is just a guide. The front is the only place it clamps tight.
My old craftsman clamped front and back.
Rich
Thank You. I will await your reply. Although not a big problem to drill/grind out for the bolt heads..rail is fairly substantial. I had the Craftsman upgrade fence but nothing great...spent too much time aligning to blade for each cut. The heft of the Delta is a nice surprise.
jimmiem
I attached some pic of fence. One pic has a bolt laying on the table.
I think you should countersink the front bolts.
As you can see in the pic that back rail doesn't make any difference.
Rich
I really appreciate your taking the time to send the pictures. I can what you mean. Back to the drill press.
Thank You
Long time. I finally got the rails attached. Lots of drilling. I just need to attach the on/off switch. Any suggestions?
Thank You
JIM
The thread from long ago.
I have a over the counter light switch in a metal box mounted to the underside of one of the wings.
Not exactly a safety switch.
Sorry i don't have any great ideas.
Rich
Ah yes, the never ending thread. Lot's of other things took away from my hole drilling. 9 holes per front and back rail plus counter sinking the front rail holes.
I was experimenting with 'L' shaped metal corner braces which I can attach to the rail and then attach the original switch to it.
By the time I'm ready to cut wood all the forrests will have disappeared.
It's me again. Finally got it all together. Any hints on getting a good fence alignment? I was going to back the alignment screws all the way out and start the adjustment from that point. The front to back alignment is off by the thickness of a piece of paper. I've also got an alignment gauge that I bought for aligning the blade...got the blade to .002. Am I nuts?
Also, when I tighten the fence the handle stops at parallel to the table, as in your picture. Is this adequate or does it need to stop at a lower position to get a good grip?
jimmiem
Also, when I tighten the fence the handle stops at parallel to the table, as in your picture. Is this adequate or does it need to stop at a lower position to get a good grip?
I think that's fine.
The front to back alignment is off by the thickness of a piece of paper.
I think I will have to get new glasses to see that well. LOL
Am I nuts? Yes. Sounds like your better at this than me. LOL
Rich
I just got glasses...that's how I can see it. Also, I bought a dial indicator that is supposed to measure to .001"...did I waste my money? I spend more time adjusting than cutting anything...that can't be good.
Again, thank you for all your help and pictures.
Is your old saw by any chance a craftsmen 12 inch direct drive ?
My deal;
I bought the 12 inch saw back back back about 75 . I havent used it much but its sit around a lot more . There was a guy that had one that the motor went out so I said just buy mine but he didnt . It sat some more . I put it in the shop and I was gonna set it up but it only has an angle iron fence you have to adjust front to back. I was using a lighter saw to haul around . Then Dad dies and I get a rockwell shop saw that sweet. I move it in the shop and the old saw out back and cover it. I had always thought about putting a good fence on it so I checked and it was like 150 bucks . Sounds very familar huh? I didnt spend the 150. So I moved it out front and offered it for sale . No one wanted to buy it for 200. I figgure now Ive got nothing really. I didnt want to spend 150 on a fence and the motor go out which I already knew is 350. I guess I ready to put 160 on it and use as a job saw when I need it .
Tim
Tim
Yes it is a 12" direct drive.
I already put a new motor on it about 20 years ago.
Always thought I would upgrade, never did.
Rich
So what model , what fence did you use and Ill write it down . Real close to the same age so it should be the same saw.
Im not really concerned with the motor on this one becasue I never used it much. It was too heavy to move around by myself and not good enough for a shop saw.
Ive got better ways to move stuff now and the saw would be good with a good fence . It has a bunch of power as you know. I have a ramp trailer and good dollies since my heart attack.
Thanks ,
Tim
Edited 5/27/2008 9:12 pm by Mooney
Edited 5/27/2008 9:13 pm by Mooney
Tim
The fence is a standard Delta T-30.
I'll have to go out to the shop to find the model #.
I took a 1/2' steel rod (smooth) and put two 10" wheels on it.
I just tilt it up like a hand truck and move wherever.
Rich
Tim
Model #113.29950
Here is pic of wheels.
Rich
Thanks
I rebuilt my old Craftsman a few years ago and got the Craftsman XR2424 fence. It was pretty easy to install and is still going strong after four years of daily use.
Edited 3/27/2008 10:12 pm by Dave45
Would you have a picture of the fence. I can't find one anywhere online. I'm wondering if it's the fence I have.
Thank Uou
Here you go, Jim. I'm not sure if they still sell this model, but I've seen upgrade fences on the Craftsman website.
Thank You for the pictures. I googled the product and found that the model number is not made anymore...replaced by a different model...can't seem to find the replacement model either. I'l have to keep looking.
Check the Sears or Craftsman website(s) - I'm pretty sure I saw upgrade fences on one of them a while back.
Picked up the Delta 36-T30 at Lowes yesterday. They had it on sale. Haven't read any negative reviews on it. If it doesn't improve my saw's accuracy I'll take up a different hobby.
Thank You for the reply.
A good fence is important, but it isn't everything. I got my fence 6-7 years ago as part of a semi-major overhaul of my saw.
I tore it down to it's basic components, cleaned it, and reassembled it - spending a lot of time getting the blade and arbor dead-on parallel to the miter slot I also replaced the cast pulleys with machined pulleys, and added a link-style drive belt.
Those plus the upgraded fence took my old saw to a whole 'nuther level of performance and accuracy. Shortly afterward, I got the Incra 3000 miter gauge and was suddenly able to cut good miters for a (welcome) change. - lol
What I discovered was that Craftsman's reputation as a purveyor of crappy tools may be exaggerated. Yes, fresh out of the box they're pretty marginal, but I gotta wonder if some of the problems aren't due to inexperienced owners not doing a good job with the initial setup. Toss in a few upgrades and they seem to be pretty decent saws.
I did the cast pulleys, link belt, and PALS and got a real good alignment on the blade. For the price and availablily Craftsman is OK.
Thank You again for the reply.
P.S. Did you add the grease fittings the In-Line Industries owner recommended?
How Do I Align Craftsman Table Saw
You point it at the nearest Sears of course.
You know how you align it. you throw it out the blank window blanking as it "self aligns" and you know why, because it's just going to break on you
There's enough youth in this world, how 'bout a fountain of SMART??!!