How do I know glazing compound is ready?
rasher
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Hi all, hopefully this is a quick one.
We have a bunch of storm windows we’ve redone and glazed with DAP 33 glazing compound, probably 2-3 weeks ago. The compound is still soft and it will dent from fingertips if pressed with medium pressure. At what point will we know when the glazing is ready to prime (Benjamin Moore pentrating alkyd primer, 2 coats of Semi-Gloss Ben Moore acrylic latex)? What are the penalties for priming too early? How about priming too late?
How much longer do we need to wait?
Thanks.
Replies
I would say it's ready now. But check their web site for FAQs and email your question to them. With modern chemical manipulations and formulations, old knowledge is not necessarily better than no knowledge.
Edited 7/22/2004 4:11 pm ET by Dez
I have always glazed and let set overnight, then primed and painted. Never an issue. Just worked on a house that had windows we did 2 years ago and they were fine. DanT
same here,
Shellac or oil primer on the wood, then glazing, then prime with oil based the next day
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Shellac or oil primer on the wood, then glazing, then prime with oil based the next day
Paul,
Oil primer on old scraped water based paint? Ya think?
I'm assuming its scraped and a bit lumpy and also assuming its water base they're going over.
I'm not second guessing you just asking cause guess whos next real soon?
Be glazed over
--> andyThe secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
I didn't catch the part about this being water based. normally - no, you don't want to put oil over latex, but this is a case of re-glazing. That means - to me anyways - that the old glaxing has been scraped out clean and the wood is exposed bare. I don't remember that I ahve ever done a re-glazing job where there was any pain left in the mullion daado by the time it was ready to put the glazing compound in, and most all the re-glazin I do is on windows older than I am so if there were any original paint left in there, it certainly wasn't latex, therefore, oil would be fine.
but the reason I also said Shellac - I most often use tje Kilz shelac based primer there because it is so fast drying. Customer's don't like to have the sash out overnight sometines, LOL
Then the oil primer over the glazing.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Generally, you can paint over glazier's putty as soon as it firms up enough that the paintbrush won't distort it or rip it out of the sash. Usually this is from 24-48 hours, depending on the putty, the temperature, etc. Since you are 2-3 weeks down the road, you ought to be able to paint without any problems at all. There should be no issues with an alkyd primer adhering to a standard linseed-oil based putty; I am not familiar with Dap 33--perhaps you'd better check their website's FAQ to find out.
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
Try applying the oil primer to the glazing with a half inch artist brush which has soft bristles. This lets you get the first coat on without messing up the still soft putty; a standard sash brush will often leave rake marks in the nice smooth glazing you worked so hard on. Once the primer dries, the surface is hard enough to switch to the 1" or 1 1/2" sash brush for the finish coats.
Yup, that'll work if you've really gotta get that primer coat on the same day. For me it's not usually an issue, as I try to re-glaze any windows that need it on the first day of the job so they'll be ready to paint by the time the rest of the house is scraped and prepped....
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
Tommh,
Re: 1/2" artists brush... The old timers that I apprenticed under always told me that the smallest brush we ever were to use was a 3". That's what we painted all window sash with. Holds more paint. I bet ya they'd have sent me home if I showed up with an artist's brush! LOL
Peace
I agree that this tip would not cut it with the pros...too slow. Mainly for a homeowner doing windows one at a time.
check w/ the local glass shop..a polyurethane glazing is way better than the old DAP33...they use it for fixed pane installs..in a tube, not cheap..but real dammm good..
Got rain?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
I think I have a few tubes of that. I'll check to see if its poly.
Rain? Spose' to rain the next few days....ugh....although I've heard that before.
We have about another four-five days to finish the roof completely..WOW!
It'll have been over sixty sq....whewwww. Dems a whole lotta shingles as I'm sure you know.
PS...I big well respected roofer stopped by to compliment me on the roof. HE said he gets between $1000 and $1500 a sq depending on the job....
He said my job would be about $1300 if he priced it...YIKES!!!
Never again...lol
BE some famous last words,
andyThe secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Damm bro'...ya need a hatchet,,I'm almost done,16 sq. alone.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
oh yehhhhhhh....60 sq 2 people...lol...and I wont even bring up all the copper flashing I bent on the brake and the cricket area was intense and the dormers and the the the the
Be dreaming at night of shingles...ugh
andyThe secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Do you have pictures of this cricket you keep referring to?
Jon Blakemore
I'd wait longer myself, but you could paint it now. I've had bad results painting it too soon.