How do you cut a groove in the bottom of a solid core door?
xxPaulCPxx
| Posted in General Discussion on
OK, I’ve got a router, and I’ve got a solid core door. I need to cut a 3/8″ wide by 3/4″ deep slot in the bottom for the guide. The only way I can think of doing it that doesn’t have me battling the weight of either has me standing on a 3′ tall platform next to the door, and routing it from the top… but that doesn’t seem very reasonable. I would think setting up the router at a 90 degree angle and running the door into it would be better – kind of like a biscuit jointer – but I can’t think of a way to hold the router securely and accurately at a 90 degree angle. Help!
Replies
Ummmmm... you don't want to
Ummmmm... you don't want to lay the door flat on some horses? Giddyup.
Because I want a groove in the edge that faces the carpet, not your toes!
The slot cutters which could be used with the door on sawhorses max out at 1/2" depth of cut... I need 3/4" deep.
can't you put a smaller
can't you put a smaller bearing on the slot cutter?
I don't use a slot cutter for
I don't use a slot cutter for that. A 3/8" straight bit, a router fence, and 4 or 5 passes.
I have also put the track in the floor, and the pin in the door.
Build yourself an L shaped fence (with triangular brackets for support) and clamp it to the face of the door. The base of the router rests on the door edge and one leg of the L, with a strip of wood screwed to the L the appropriate distance away for the groove. Make sure when you rout that the fence is on the correct side (rotation torque) or the bit will wander. I've done similar, though not as long of groove, for lock mortises. You can either clamp the door so the edge is vertical, and rout it that way, or the door can be horizontal, with the fence clamped on the bottom face. Take several passes, slow and steady.
I guess I'm really concerned
I guess I'm really concerned that the weight of the router - on it's side - will make it hard to control. In a sense, I'd be no longer depending on the weight to keep it on the work, now I have the spinning devil not only trying to wander but also trying to fall off!
Definitely lay the door down - bring Moses to the mountain, not the other way around.
Make a fence that is long and heavy, a three or four foot long 2X8 comes to mind. Attach a replacement, 90 degree baseplate which holds the router horizontal and attaches to the fence. The weight of the fence will counter-balance the weight of the router. It will also ensure your start and finish (infeed and outfeed) are well done. You will still need to support the router and push/guide it along but you will not have to fight to keep it properly aligned.
It doesn't need to be pretty, as you will use it once and disassemble it.
This is how I'd do it. Doing it this way, I know it would work and I wouldn't have to worry about it.
If you are really worried about it, do the cut in several light passes.
I like your method better than mine, thanks, I'll have to remember that next time.
Why are you using a router at all for this job? Just set your circular saw for depth and use a fence, 3 or 4 passes and your groove will be cut.
http://www.quittintime.com
Which would... again... tilt the saw away from the work, forcing me to support it in two dimensions.
Use a cordless, they weigh like 1.5 lbs. Add on to your fence if need be. If you can't hold a cordless horizontaly against a door, you might need to look in to interior design instead of construction.
Paul.
When grooving the bottom of the door for the new entrance door style vinyl sweeps, I use a circular saw and it's rip fence. The saw runs along the bottom of the door cutting the groove-depth you set. I need to run 2 grooves for the barbs on the sweep. I set one, cut, then set the fence for the other.
For you, I would do as suggested-run the saw at the correct depth-set the fence for the upper edge of the location. Move the fence for as many times as it takes you to make the width required.-should be only 3 passes.
The saw isn't heavy or awkward (man, that spelling looks wrong).
My ripfence on the old Rockwell 315 is nice and long. Takes just a slight bit of control as you exit the cut. Maybe newer equipment isn't up to the task.
then I guess you're going to
then I guess you're going to have to dig a hole and place the door in it vertical untill it is at a comfortable working height, backfill the hole to ensure the door is not moving then proceed with either the router or the saw.
http://forums.delphiforums.com/breaktimeclass
http://www.quittintime.com
Build something. Mount a plate of plywood on the router base and attach another fairly wide piece to it at right angles, suitably braced. Or clamp the bottom of the door between two 4x4s.
From all the other comments, I must be missing something. Seems like a slot cutter in your router with one of those router bit extensions would be the easiest way, e.g.,
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/orderstatus/html/smarthtml/pages/router_collet.html
The slot cutter doesn't cut
The slot cutter doesn't cut deep enough, they normally go to 1/2" depth.
This slot cutter goes to a depth of 23/32". That's only 1/32" shy opf the 3/4" you need. It's available in two versions - 1/4" and 1/2" shank. It's priced at $16.
A full 3/4" depth is probably out there somewhere if you look. I thought you already had the bit and were ready to do the cuts.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/orderstatus/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html
Yeah, I saw that too.
I ended up mounting the rip sled that came with the router and trying it out on a practice door. I had the door on sawhorses at a comfy height, and I was able to cradle the router like a football (I thought I would be taking all the weight in the wrists).
I was able to make the cut(s) cleanly just holding it and carefully moving it across. Thanks for all the tips, I'll use them next time!