I just replaced the glass window in my Jotul 8 woodstove and within 30 minutes I heard a pop and it cracked in half.
I am undecided if it was that the glass shop used something other than pyroceram or if the log holder inside the stove was touching the glass. The only thing that has me thinking I should check with the glass shop to see what they used is their low price. it cost 68 dollars to have a 10 by 14 rectangle with the top cut in a curve. Any where else wants upwards of a $100 just for a basic rectangle with no curve.
If it was pyroceram and just an interference problem that cracked it then I am really impressed by their price and will just buy another.
On the other hand if the glass was inferior and I need to spend $100 + to get it made of pyroceram I am curious about other options.
I saw some pyroceram for sale on ebay for 49 dollars (cost + shipping) and would consider cutting the curve myself if it is as basic as I am thinking. I cut curves in granite regularly using a wet saw. I would be inclined to try an electroplated diamond blade as they chip less.
I realize that saving 60 or 70 bucks may not be worth it in terms of time spent researching, buying and cutting. I do save a trip to drop off and a trip to pick up the glass and I get a measure of satisfaction out of repairing things myself.
I googled Pyroceram and cutting and cant find any guidelines or instructions on cutting or grinding it.
Do any of you know what is involved in cutting pyroceram?
Thanks,
karl
Replies
I cut neoceram with a regular cutter, just run out the curves on a tangent and snap off them chunks. Then a beltsander nose and a coarse belt to refine any bumps.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Somebody brought a pyrex tube to me to cut. I didn't have a clue, but I turned on the bench grinder and was going to score it. Like the instant the wheel touched the tube it broke in half right where I wanted it to. Touched it up on the wet belt sander and good to go in about 15 seconds.
The pyrex test tube got me to thinking. I wonder if the glass in a baking dish would work. A big glass cassarole dish at K-mart can't be over 15 bucks. I just don't know if it is tempered or some other weird treatment making it uncuttable. Anybody want to venture a guess?
Bobtim, Interesting idea using a baking dish. I need roughly 10 by 14 and can't recall if I have seen baking dishes that big. I might try it if I had no other options or already had the dish and didn't really need it in the kitchen.I like your creativity.Karl
I can't imagine a pyrex bajking dish is tempered, especially the ones in our kitchen. Just think of all the times someone taps on the rim with a metal spatula."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Sphere, What were you cutting neoceram for? If it is suitable for woodstove glass do you have a economical source for it? We seem to break stove glass every 12 to 18 months so I would buy a larger qty if I could get more of price break. (most likely if I had spare glass I would never break them anymore).I am still learning what the different types of glass are and don't know if there are differences between neoceram and pyro ceram. I never even considered using a regular glass cutter though your approach sounds great.After reading in the following post that a pyrex test tube severed completely with just a slight touch on a grinding wheel I am a little more hesitant to consider my idea of cutting the curve with a electroplated diamond blade.On monday I will ask the glass shop what kind of glass they sold me before I decide to do anything on my own. I still have the cracked glass in the door and it is working fine aside from the fact that it leaks air.Karl
It was a door from a woodstove in a house I had recently moved FROM just mile away. I broke a glass insert in my coal stove in the new house, at 2 AM, in the blizzard, with the flu, and coal fire BURNING.
I scampered down to the old house, snagged the door and brought it home and trimmed it to match the arched coal stove door. Carefully I might add.
BTW, the new 10x18 for the woodstove door was 90 bucks IIRC.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
just curious... if they break that often... why not just replace it with steel plate...?
p
I think that might defeat a big part of the purpose for my wife...the ambience thing
Yea , but if you steal her glass cassarole dish, she won't (or maybe , you won't) be there to see the flames.
Karl, if it's breaking that often something's not quite right. Are you sizing it with some slop?A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
the problem is that there is a cast iron log holder/grate that fits in the front of the stove that is slowly warping (probably from overfiring). I keep grinding it back on the point that tries to touch the glass. If I don't pay attention it starts contacting the glass with more and more pressure until it ultimately cracks.This last broken glass has me baffled though as I ground the point of contact way back. I have a good fibreglass rope seal under the glass and the four sheetmetal tabs that hold the glass in place seem to be applying uniform pressure.It does have expansion room ie slop.I am going to talk the glass shop right now to see what glass they use.Karl
I agree, I don't think the manufacturer would get by with a design that saw the door glass regularly breaking every 12-18 months. Have you consulted with Jotul? Do they sell the glass as a replacement part? You would like to think if you bought their replacement part that it would endure, as long as there isn't some kind of problem with the door or stove itself that's been the cause of the issue.-John
Don't know if you looked at this site:
http://www.fireglass.com/glass/neoceram/Neoceram.pdf
From your description it sounds like the glass shop gave you the wrong type glass. The short cycle before it broke would indicate thermal shock, and longer cycle would indicate that the glass was loosing its' temper over a short time, due to a hot fire.
I have never cut the stuff, but wouldn't hesitate to give it a try. First with a high quality oil filled glass cutter (http://www.glasscrafters.biz/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=ta_cut ), then with either our glass band saw or Taurus ring, both with diamond blades. I would then dress the edge with the glass grinder and give a thorough inspection for any flaws before putting it in the door. In regular and tenpered glass any small chip or flaw in the edge will almost alway result in a failure when the piece is stressed.
DW does stained glass and mosaic glass, so we have the equipment. You might even find a local stained glass artist that will cut it for much cheaper than the glass shop.