I’ve got a pretty interesting situation that I’d love some help with… added a garage that has an opposing slope (12/12) to the house and addition (3.5/12 at the intersection). I took some shots of the junction and pointed out the critical spot w/ a red arrow. Does anyone have a tip? Thanks for any ideas! -Ryan
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Treat it as you would a chimney corner on the high side. Giftwrap everything with ice and water shield and then step flash. Cut and arrange the step flash so that it is on top of the edgemetal and so that it sheds out over the siding below. Cut two pieces of step flash halfway along the bend and slide them together. By bending at the end of the cut you will have a flash that will fit most corners. Add any pieces of metal as you see fit, keeping in mind that water runs downhill (I know it's obvious but a lot of people seem to forget this). Wherever you add blackjack use it to keep water out but allow for any sneaky drops to drain away quickly.
Okay... I read your note slowly a couple times and I think I've got it! Thanks for the tips! -Ryan
I can't tell if your roof underlayment on the low side extends a foot up the wall-but it should,to act as backer for your step flashings.
When you shingle and step flash up to the "red arrow" on the low side and again from the high side you should really have a metal shop or roofer custom fabricate and solder up a piece that will be watertight.Maybe you have the proper tools and experience to do it.
Really needs to be done on site to fit your particular situation.
A lot of guys have a 4' break that is transportable and could make it up in an hour or so.Might be a minimum charge,but having no leakage might be worth it.
That is a good idea... I think I'll hunt up an experience roofer who can solder up a piece of custom flashing. Thanks for the input- Ryan
That's look's like a pretty good sized project for a weekend warrior!
There is no problem with that. I would back it up with a peelandstick, but the step flashings from each side will lap up and over each other, then you can do a tiny little dead valley there after teh rake trim is on and the metal edging, It might be 8" long instaead of the inch or so now, but that won't trap any water or snow that short.
Where I see a problem is in the valley metal on that dormer. it is not doing anything. You need the underlayment on first, then shingle up to the bottom opf the valley so the metal can lap over the shingles there and kick water out on top. As it sits now, any water that hits that metal, will be directed right in under everything.
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You're not kidding! I might be in over my head on this project.
You weren't supposed to see the metal- I did that before I read Mike Guertin's book. A friend of mine told me that it was a good idea to put tha down in the valley to protect the shingles if someone steps there... just as support. I think I'll pull it out. Good catch!
On that junction you looked at... your idea is to extend out of that spot w/ a short dead valley ... carrying any trapped water out on to the roof deck? Thanks for your help!
Could you post some more some more angle shots of that?
Just joking.
Mike
Trust in God, but row awayfrom the rocks
Hey... I even eliminated a couple! I should have left a couple out... guys are catching more mistakes than I planned! :)
-Ryan
Too much info...
You are brave to put yourself out there though Mike
Trust in God, but row awayfrom the rocks
Does it say "The Home Depot" all over your roof? What is that stuff, 18" wide felt?
Joe H
I saw "Home Depot" house wrap on an addition the other day. Up close it also said "Tyvek" in small letters.
Hey Joe- That is one of those "high performance" underlayments ... can be exposed for 6 months before shingles go on. I think the batch I bought was marketed to Home Depot as Tri-Flex... I'm pretty sure they were bought out by W.R. Grace and are now under another name. I did double lap it thought to only 18" exposure b/c of the low-slope [3.5/12]. Seems to be pretty nice stuff.
Thats a tough one. I agree that sheet metal would be best.
One way to approach is to make a mockup out of 1/4 plywood or stiff cardboard. Then take the mockup to a sheet metal shop and have them fabricate it with soldered seams. Copper would be best but at least galvanized of course.
I hope you'll show us the solution!
Tom
You Don't Want to Know.
You Aren't Going to Know.
The mockup is a good move... absolutely... I'll post a pic when we get it solved... tx-Ryan
Where are you located? Perhaps somebody here can recommend someone local to do the metal work.
-- J.S.
Guys, come on. You're turning a simple problem into piano building. The second poster solved this one. Try to visualize how much h2o is actually going to be running over this joint. I wouldn't get the solder rig out of the truck for this. Roof that sucker and move on to the next problem.Birth, school, work, death.....................
Hi cu,I would agree with your lackadaisical approach if water was always polite enough to just do what you want it to do.
But it doesn't behave in the ways we expect even in typical situations so in an atypical situation like this one with opposing water flows it seems best to be careful, not hurry up and move on to the next problem.JMHOTomYou Don't Know.
You Don't Want to Know.
You Aren't Going to Know.