Replies

1. 
   zak | Jan 04, 2008 09:53am | #1

   I glue it up on the floor with miter clamps. It's not really that awkward- I usually glue up 2 or 4 door casings at a time, and move them around within about 30 minutes. Occasionally I'll break a miter, but it's rare.

   zak

   "When we build, let us think that we build forever.  Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin

   "so it goes"

    

2. 
   DanH | Jan 04, 2008 02:29pm | #2

   I'm certainly no expert, but I use the technique Norm demoed once: Cut and install the sides (leaving the top 2' or so unnailed), then lay the top piece, cut slightly long, upside down atop the points of the sides. Mark where the points contact the top piece and then cut your miters to those marks. Flex the tops of the sides to make any minor adjustments while you install the top.

   Doesn't hurt to biscuit the joints, of course, to keep them from pulling apart with shrinkage, but that can be done either way.

   If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
1. 
   MattSwanger | Jan 04, 2008 03:03pm | #5

   I biscuit all my stain grade casings. 

   It takes a minute longer but well worth it for the benefits down the road. 

   Wood can move alot,  pins in the corners and glue aren't always enough.  Woods favorite carpenter

    

3. 
   Sphere | Jan 04, 2008 02:50pm | #3

   On the wall. I start with the head centered on the reveal marks on the side jambs.  Get the miters on the legs and tweak my way down to the sill.

   I carry a small 1/4" thick lexan triangle with two holes drilled in it, both common roundover radiuss as finger/hanging holes. It allows a mark at .250 to be made, which I just cover with trim, giving a reveal, and can double check 45 deree and 90 cuts or jambs..like a little speed square.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"

4. 
   john7g | Jan 04, 2008 02:51pm | #4

   Assuming the wall is pretty flat to the jamb and the casing is narrow enough to flex and the jamb is square with sides parallel... up the left side  & nail tight, set the top piece to make a tight miter corner but only nail the left half or less, enough to hold the left corner.  Set the right piece and adjust it with the top to make a tight corner. Nail top to hold corner, adjust reaminder to get good/even reveal and nail away.  When doing doors I start on the non-hinge side, this will allow the first piece to go up nice and straight with a good reveal and leave any reveal variations at the hinge side which tends to be away from line of sight. 

   Sometimes the trim is from 2 different runs or 2 different mills and that becomes the headache you might be describing.  Lot's of ways to deal with it, sort and match or reject and get new or combinations thereof. 

   Another cause of the slightly proud issue you saw cold be poor prep of wall to jamb heights, meaning the SR could be standing proud and twisting the trim.  Surform and hammers fix that. 

5. 
   Pete | Jan 04, 2008 05:00pm | #6

   try this, you'll love it.

   I'm right handed, so I start with the right leg first.  that lets me hold my gun in my right hand easily while grasping the trim with the left.  (not such a big deal with vertical sticks, but more effective with the horizontal pieces.)

   go ahead and install the right piece.

   nail it up fearlessly.

   now, your next stick is the header.... if your saw is close by I recommend cutting it a hair long then holding it up to your first piece... you can eyeball that miter and make an adjustment on the saw if need be.  then, recheck the miter and when it fits perfectly, go ahead and cut the upper left miter. (if your saw is downstairs and around the corner, then just pull out your trusty block plane and trim it in place) or, just go ahead and cut both sides of your head casing miter, the worst case scenario is just a slightly shorter stick... certainly not an issue.  now you can drop a booger of glue on that perfect joint and push that miter tightly with your left hand (while you whip out the paslode with your right and nail up the head casing.

   now it is very easy to install the left leg.... same approach-- if it needs a tweak, then go ahead and trim as needed. then nail the rascal up.  if you adjust these miters even a couple times it isn't going to significantly affect the length of the stick... for instance that left leg won't be more than a hair off the floor.

        the beauty of this technique is that you only adjust one cut on each stick (as opposed to dropping in a head piece and cutting it ten times only to discover it is still too short)

        trust me, if you try it, it will reveal it's rewards much better than I can explain it.
1. 
   marv | Jan 04, 2008 05:13pm | #7

   I recently saw a different approach.  On a window that will need casing on all four sides (no sill), the trimmer attached the lower casing.  He didn't miter it, but ran it past the future side trim and returned it on itself.  He then trimed out the rest of the window just as you would with a window sill.  It looked different, but I kinda liked it.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.

   Marv