I’m putting an addition on a 50 year old cottage in SW Florida. The old roof is southern yellow pine boards which is very hard to nail into and the new roof is plywood. The entire roof has been “dried in” using 30# roofing felt with the metal valleys and ridges installed but leaks like a sieve when we get a storm that drops 2″ of rain in an hour. The final roof will be V-5 crimp metal. Should I be concerned at this point about the leaks or will the metal roof be totally watertight? Who should be responsible for getting rid of the mold, mildew and water damaged insulation; my contractor or me? Thanks in advance for your help.
Cheers:
Ron.
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Ron,
Dried in means won't leak. Once a house is "dried in" it should be as leak proof as the finished product. Obviously the materials used to do this are not meant to take much abuse so tar paper can get torn or wind damaged. Those are the risks of the business. But in the absence of weather related damage I would be having a short but intense talk with your contractor about fixing he leaks and repairing water damage. He/she should have no problem with taking responsibility.
Did they put the valley metal on top of the paper with nothing lapping over the valley? That would certainly be a leaky spot. You definately want to know your roof is water tight before you put metal on it. It actually sound like that untimely rain storm may have been a blessing in disguise, now you can get the roof truly dried in and you won't be surprised when the next one comes!
Good Luck.
Josh
To me "dried in" means no leaks with the possible exception of what might drop through a plumbing vent hole that doesn't have the actual pipe in it yet or something similar that will clearly be taken care of soon.
I really like a product called RoofTopGuardII instead of felt paper. I had RTGII on my roof for about three months of high wind, snow and rain (Colorado). There was no damage to the RTGII and there were no leaks. Yes, it costs somewhat more and yes, IMO, it is well worth it.
There is another similar product by a different manufacturer... something like "Triflex" maybe? Anyway I think RTGII is an incredible step up from tar paper at a minimal additional cost. Given the problems you've had it might be worth switching products.
"A liberal is a man too broadminded to take his own side in a quarrel." Robert Frost
To me, if it is a new roof - which yours obviously isn't - dried in is to protect the plywood itself for a week or three. Plumbers are still making holes in the roof and carpenters might be using toeboards while trimming out the fascia so some water will get in.
But on a lived in house / re-roof sitruation, I go all out with extra lapps and nails, boots on stack pipes and sealing the valleys. In over twenty years of being a roofer and another fifteen as a remodelor, I have only had one leak in a dried in re-roof situation.
Are these leaks near valleys and soil stacks? Are there tears visible in the paper? Are there materials stocked on the roof anywhere so as to impede the flow of water off? most dry in leaks should be very easy to fix, if they have any inkling . if they can't get it right, they don't understand roofing and should not be doing it.
The costs are absolutely the roofers to bear. if he has no insurance, shame on him. If you failed to check whether he has current insurance, shame on you. But I understand that FLA has a strong consumer protection system and contractor licensing system that should be able to help you.
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