Replies

1. 
   kk | Jun 20, 1999 02:26am | #12

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   Cut your last block to strings on batter boards.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jun 23, 1999 10:51am | #13

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   Well, there are a few reasons for using the post-and-pad. For one thing, the existing cabin is done with that way. Besides, we live on bad and potential permafrost soil, so the whole house is built on top of a 3' deep gravel pad. Any kind of frost-free footing and perimeter foundation just wouldn't be practical...using piers is also cheaper and the structure is not going to be that big (new and old= 32x24).

   Thanks for all the advice...I got most of the piers at the same height, had to add some mortar but they are (hopefully, and if a water level is to be believed) within less than 1/8"...of course now I have found that the depth of my middle I-beam is 1/4" less than the outer beams!

   -Olav in Fairbanks

3. 
   David_Bell | Jun 23, 1999 06:19pm | #14

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   Advice from a non professional who learned the hard way: Do you have a water hose level? They are real cheap and work perfectly if you keep bubbles out of them. Working around your foundation with a four foot level allows the misery of compound error where you get off a little, then a little more, etc. Some people buy a level system that uses a regular water hose and others make their own out of clear tubing, with one end in a gator aide bottle. Do the best you can with the piers using a story pole and mixing your morter right to get the 8# height from each block, and level it up with shims to get it perfect. You'll be glad you did.

4. 
   Guest_ | Jun 23, 1999 06:23pm | #15

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   Hello all-

   I'm building a post-and-pad foundation for an existing cabin plus a new addition. I've never done my own foundation before and am wondering how level the foundation plane needs to be. I'm building the piers out of 8x8x16 concrete block and although my pads are at the same height I'm assuming that my piers might be a little bit out of level once I'm done with the mortar etc. How far out can they be? 1/4"? 1/2"?

   Would appreciate some professional input...

   Thanks,
   Olav in Fairbanks AK

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 18, 1999 06:09am | #1

   *Hi Olav,Although beauty is in the eye of the beholder, there's no reason why they wouldn't be level within an 1/8 of an inch. It's not hard as long as you have a good level. Check the level as you add the courses. On the final course, add extra mortar and gently tap down the block until it's level with the other piers.Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 18, 1999 06:13am | #2

   *oalv...go rent a laser level for a day... put up your batter boards and make your foundation right on level... it will make everything else easier...E

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 18, 1999 06:21am | #3

   *Assuming you have shot the footings with a builder's level, and they are all level, the block should not be a problem. They should be standard CMU's measuring 7 5/8" in height. This allows for a 3/8" motar joint. After you set a course, simply measure and see if you are going up in 8" increments. The top measurment should be divisible by 8. With a little practice with your trowel, you shouldn't have any trouble getting it level within 1/8" or so. The tolerance depends on the size of the building. I recently framed a house 108' long where the foundation was out 3/4" with know visible problems. That's about 1/2" more than I like to see. I always shoot for perfection on a foundation. It's just not that hard too get it right.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 18, 1999 06:21am | #4

   *Hello Olav,My experience with piers is that they could be out inches and it wouldnt matter because you can make up the difference with your post.I always set piers with what ever grade and soil conditions might be,then use a builders level or water level have your finish floor height and make the post height acordinglly.AND YES THE HOUSE SHOULD BE LEVEL + OR - IN 100'JEREMY MAUS

2. 
   Guest_ | Jun 18, 1999 08:34am | #5

   *Olav....And the answer is......AS LEVEL AS YOU CAN MAKE IT.Ed. Williams

3. 
   Guest_ | Jun 18, 1999 10:28am | #6

   *Ed, I'm liking your perspective more and more.....:-) Keeping it level just seems to make everything easier as the days go by....Sam

4. 
   Guest_ | Jun 18, 1999 10:34am | #7

   *Ed's right.Go for shear friggin perfection. Take what you can get. But know what you have and deal with it.JonC

5. 
   Guest_ | Jun 18, 1999 11:09am | #8

   *Echo: Get them as level as possible. Shoot for perfection at the top of the piers. It makes everything else go easier and it is a good discipline. Also makes everything look better. Also gives a good point of reference for finding out if the soil is shifting.

6. 
   Guest_ | Jun 18, 1999 07:07pm | #9

   *Olav. Level is level, and that is the goal. One on the more important details about a foundation is that it has to be a flat plane!I'd rather work on the 108' long foundation, that is 3/4" out of level, if it is a flat plane, then a 108' fondation that undulates 1/4" up and down!If it's my house, and i find a flat plane, that is 1/2" out of level, I just keep everything parallel, and perpindicular, and I would defy anyone to see the error.These types of flat planes used to be wuite common, when the foudation guys had set up their level slightly wrong. Nowadays, self adjusting lasers have greatly reduced this phenomenom. Thankfully!If you can, use that mud to create the perfect foundation. But if it isn't perfect, join the crowd!blue

7. 
   Guest_ | Jun 19, 1999 09:56am | #10

   *By the way Olav care to share why you are using post and pad for a foundation?

8. 
   Wayne_D._Muck | Jun 19, 1999 07:39pm | #11

   *Olav, Use a story pole to run your block.Wayne