Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Jun 30, 2005 06:04am | #1

   Tomorrow is fine, but there is no need to strip it at all. Mud and grass it all that should ever see it.

    

    

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   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
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1. 
   Yogi | Jun 30, 2005 07:25am | #2

   Piffin-  Thank you muchly-  I appreciate it-  Dave

2. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 30, 2005 02:07pm | #3

   Pif's right on the stripping time, but 3 feet is a lot of cardboard to see.  You did mean 3 feet above ground, right?   Depending on where it is of course.  If it's not visible then don't mess with it.  But if it is visible, the cardboard will start to delaminate in 6 months or so, and will look very tacky.

    

   I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

1. 
   Yogi | Jun 30, 2005 05:58pm | #4

   Yes, above ground-  I assumed there was a little mix-up in communication there-  I'll pull the tube off today-  Thanks-  Dave

1. 
   CapnMac | Jun 30, 2005 07:21pm | #5

   I'll pull the tube off today

   Put a beat-up blade in the utility knife (or use the knife that still has the beat-up blade in it that we're still meaning to change, honest), and score a bit below the grass line.

   Then score up following the diagonal seam--this will make life just a tad easier.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

1. 
   Yogi | Jun 30, 2005 11:05pm | #6

   NOW he tells me!  I'll do that on the rest of them-  Thanks muchly-  Dave

1. 
   CapnMac | Jul 01, 2005 12:57am | #7

   NOW he tells me!

   Sorry, can only read (and post) only so quickly; besides Ed had given you the really good advice already . . . Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

2. 
   Yogi | Jul 01, 2005 01:14am | #8

   Mac-  Everybody gave me good advice, for free, on request-  It doesn't get any better than that, and I sure appreciate it-  I'm much obliged-  Dave

2. 
   Piffin | Jul 01, 2005 06:44am | #9

   I see - we never leave the crete above ground. That becomes a thermal sipon so it is more likely to have frost heaving it up. We stop the crete at ground level of maybe two inches up, and go the rest of the way with the wood post 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Yogi | Jul 01, 2005 06:31pm | #10

   Holy cow-  That I didn't know-  What's best to be done now?  Any ideas?  Thanks-  Dave

1. 
   Piffin | Jul 02, 2005 07:31pm | #14

   If you haver a footing base under the column tied with rebar, that will help prevent it from lifting, but if just a pier column, dig around it a couple feet down and wrap it with several plies of plastic. The frost will stretch and lift at the plastic without getting a grip on the concrete. It would be in effect, a slip ssheathe.We do this sometimes for small porches that have to be built quickly - dig the four feet down, place a sack of sakrete without openning it, seat the wood post directly on that, wrappp the post with plastic, and backfill. The sakrete hardens off from moisture in the soil and resistes the loading of the porches weight dow while the plastic resists the upward forces of the frost lense 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   Yogi | Jul 02, 2005 09:14pm | #15

   Piffin-  Thanks again, much obliged-  Each 8" pier is set on footings 18" wide by 12" deep, three pieces of rebar tieing (sp?) the base to the pier-

3. 
   Piffin | Jul 02, 2005 10:53pm | #16

   With that wide of a base, there is no way frost can get enoughfriction to make it plow up thru all the soil over it, unless trhe frost were below it. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   doodabug | Jul 02, 2005 02:31am | #11

   That's what I suggested in 59202.12. But I told Dave it would look better I didn't know about the science stuff.

1. 
   Yogi | Jul 02, 2005 04:33am | #12

   I appreciated the advice, and I'll plead to not being a quick study-  Any ideas about what to do with the situation as is?  Thanks-  Dave

2. 
   doodabug | Jul 02, 2005 04:15pm | #13

   Probably need a picture of what you have.

3. 
   doodabug | Jul 03, 2005 01:07am | #17

   Dave I don't know what part of the country you are in. In Northwest Indiana the bottom of the footing would have to be 42" below grade to prevent frost heave.

   If I understand correctly the bottom of your footing is 12" below grade. OK in Florida.

   I just went back to your first post. N. Idaho bottom of footing should be 48" according to my google search.

   Edited 7/2/2005 6:37 pm ET by doodabug

4. 
   Yogi | Jul 03, 2005 03:02am | #18

   Bottom of the footing is 24" below grade-  I know it doesn't seem right, considering the temperatures we can get around here-  And different parts of the panhandle have very different soils-  Here it's sandy (I've dug probably 150 holes for varying sized posts or poles and probably dug up 20 rocks in all, haven't seen any clay-  The soil survey says we have "sandy loam", which is a crock) and the ground simply doesn't hold water-  In 26 years I've not seen the gound frozen beyond 12" or so deep-  I know I've not seen every hole everywhere, but that's how it's been for me-  My neighbor built a house across the road and put on a porch similar to mine, and put the footings down 24" and it's never heaved, nor had my old porch, which was built with posts simply sitting on cinder blocks-  The water line from my well is at about 3' and has never frozen-  I know what they say, but I'm pretty sure of what is-  We'll sure see this winter-  I very much appreciate your sharing your knowledge with me-  Thanks again-  Dave