How much does stair tread “nose” matter?
On the current remodel job, it was decided to replace the stair treads with real wood and do a carpet runner down the middle. Now, the stairs are a bit on the steep side, and we don’t have any flexibility to change the rise/run.
The old treads are 1 1/16″ thick particleboard. The new treads are 5/4 pine (yes, pine, don’t even start with me, I didn’t pick them out).
And the new treads are 10 3/4″ front to back, the old ones were 11 1/4″.
And therein lies the question: What lies in store for us now that the treads are not as deep? The rise/run of the stairs themselves hasn’t changed, so part of me thinks it should be of no effect at all (apart from the cosmetic effect of less stair nose), but part of me says it’s going to make some difference on walking up or down, but I can’t quite figure out how.
Ideas?
Replies
You don't say what the tread overhang was before, but you are losing 1/2" of overhang. I would check with your local inspector. IIRC, the IRC calls for 3/4 to 1 1/4" tread overhang, although that has been part has been ammended here in Minnesota.
Mike
The noses are curved, but if you measure from the point farthest out to the riser, we went from 1 1/4" to 3/4"
I would think that would be alright by the IRC anyway. The trouble with a 3/4" overhang on a bullnose tread is that it doesn't leave enough 'flat spot' for the scotia molding at the tread/riser intersection, if you are planning on using one.
Mike
I dont think 3/4" overhang would suffice here, I'd have to look.
If your steps are steep I dont know that I'd want to give up any of that tread width though.
Doug
Edited 6/29/2007 6:51 am ET by DougU
I think less OH on the nose=more heel scuffs on the risers.
"... more heel scuffs on the risers"
That's an excellent point. Hammer also mentioned the tripping concern.
I never made the connection before, but now I understand why heel marks are a constant eyesore on my 1830s stairs. Wasn't a big deal until we painted the risers white.
There's only a 5/8-inch overhang. Rise and run are both 9 3/8 inches. (45-degree incline).
Allen
WNYguy,
HUH? Heel marks on a carpeted riser? OP's stairs have carpet runner IIRC"Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
"Heel marks on a carpeted riser?"
I was commenting on Sphere's comment, as it relates to my own staircase. I realized the OP is planning a carpet runner.
Allen
DougU, Generally speaking an old rule of thumb was the steeper the stairs the shorter the tread. It is actually easier to both ascend and descend them ."Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
i think your problem will be at the top of the stairs. If you are not replacing the nosing at the landing, you will change the geometry of the top tread rise-run ratio. And your 1/2" will take you out of the allowable variance in the code.
It will become a tripping point. Or maybe I am not understanding what you are doing?
Bowz
I think your problem will be at the top of the stairs.
I agree -- assuming the stairs were built properly to begin with, the new overhang will be out of line with all the tread noses on the rest of the stairs. It will be an awkward step at the top and may present a trip hazard.
The OP could address this by modifying the nosing at the top, or padding out ALL the risers.
Then again, maybe a 1/2" difference wouldn't be noticed. It's possible we're being too picky. ;)
Code limits variation in tread depth (and height) to less than 3/8"--the 1/2" variation at the top stair would exceed the limit.
Code violation, true. But I still don't know if it would be a problem in the real world; we might be making a fuss over nothing.
Someone here has a tag line that says something about "building as though you are paranoid." To me this falls under it.
It is something I would bet the homeowner would get used to, but I still would be paranoid about it. I've never gotten pinched by an inspection, but I have always wondered how flooring people get away with adding another layer of underlayment and vinyl, or tile to the floor at the top and bottom of the stairs. I can sure feel the difference when I walk them, but then maybe I'm a really sensitive guy. :)
Could be the original poster needs to buy 2 more treads and saw them into 1/2" strips, and add them to each tread. I doubt that would be very noticable, by the time the carpet runner is added.
Bowz
Without an overhang, your heels can hit the risers when descending, causing tripping. An overhang doesn't change the actual walking width since it's the same all the way through. Your actual tread width is from the nosing to the nosing. Nothing wrong with pine treads but they will abrade faster than a harder surface. Hard pine (southern yellow) is fairly common as opposed to soft (northern white) pine. A moot point if the stairs are carpeted. You have the wrong size treads and you should get the correct ones. Otherwise, the risers are going to take a beating both ascending and descending. The job will also look like it was done by someone who shouldn't have been doing it.
Your toes can slip off the treads going up.
SamT
Here is the 2006 IRC on stairs.http://stairways.org/pdf/2006%20Stair%20IRC%20SCREEN.pdf.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.