Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Feb 02, 2009 05:39pm | #1

   Depends on the primer, some like A100 is pretty thick and will block, then other, like B.I.N. is much thinner and soaks in. I like the BIN for spotting knots , then hit with Kilz Coverstain ( it's Oil) and drys faster than A100. Also sands a LOT better.

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   They kill Prophets, for Profits.

    

    

1. 
   blownonfuel | Feb 02, 2009 06:32pm | #2

   Thanks Sphere. So I should not be able to see any of the grain? 

1. 
   Piffin | Feb 02, 2009 06:48pm | #3

   I always see grain still after the primer 

    

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1. 
   blownonfuel | Feb 02, 2009 06:50pm | #4

   How many coats do you usually give it Piffin?

1. 
   Piffin | Feb 02, 2009 07:28pm | #5

   one, except to spot as mentioned already on knots.the idea of primer is to seal and condition the wood, and to provide a bond coat for the finish, not to hide the material. primers have less pigment than topcoats of paint and it is the pigment that does the hiding and covering.any painting should be done so as to put as much on as possible in each coat, not to spread it as far as possible. When you are leaving drips and runs and sags, you are too thick. When you are *working* to spread it out a little further, you are too thin. 

    

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2. 
   Piffin | Feb 02, 2009 07:36pm | #6

   Maybe I misunderstood - one of primer plus spot work on knots and pitch bleeds.Then filler and caulkThen two top coatsI usually use oil primer and lately latex top., and sand lightly after the primer 

    

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3. 
   blownonfuel | Feb 02, 2009 07:41pm | #7

   Perfect. Thanks

   Are pitch bleeds those areas that look like dark stains in the paint. I noticed my brother in law's fascia which he had replaced not too long ago dark stains in the grain coming trough the paint, it almost looks like oil under the surface or something.

4. 
   Piffin | Feb 02, 2009 07:55pm | #8

   generally, yes. 

    

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5. 
   blownonfuel | Feb 02, 2009 07:57pm | #9

   Should primer always be sanded?

6. 
   Piffin | Feb 02, 2009 08:09pm | #10

   depends how rough you want finish to be and how long it has been between coats, If more than a month - even less - it has oxidized and gotten dusty, interferring with bonding of topcaot 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

7. 
   blownonfuel | Feb 02, 2009 08:15pm | #11

   Thanks.

2. 
   Mongo | Feb 02, 2009 10:33pm | #12

   Coverstain is my new favorite primer, I started using it a couple of months ago. Might have even been of of your recommendation.To the OP, FWIF, when I'm done priming I can't see much wood grain telegraphing through the primer. I always use oil primer, then lightly sand. A folded sheet of sandpaper in one hand and running your bare hand over the just sanded primer will tell you how much to sand. It takes very little sanding to get a smooth-as-glass surface. Even though the Coverstain dries quite fast, I usually let it sit overnight before sanding.

1. 
   Sphere | Feb 02, 2009 10:51pm | #13

   Yeah,  coverstain is the bomb. I keep a spray can of kilz orig. for quick endgrain shots up on the cornice , but for everything else I go to the coverstain. Last customer insisted on A100, I hate that stuff. Way too thick and slow.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

    

   They kill Prophets, for Profits.

    

    

2. 
   procrazyman | Feb 03, 2009 12:22am | #14

   I have always wondered why my local Sherwin-Williams store carries Zinsser Cover-Stain.   Could it be that you don't have to wait an eternity for it to dry! Or that it can be brushed on with one arm instead of two for A-100!