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Aaron
Did you comnpare prices for wet-spray cells vs dry-blown cells? I’m interested in hear the price difference.
Herb
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Aaron
Did you comnpare prices for wet-spray cells vs dry-blown cells? I’m interested in hear the price difference.
Herb
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Replies
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Small (200') studio addition; want to
blow cels into walls and cathedral
ceiling; sunny central CA.
Should I just DW ceiling, then blow (or
dump) cels from above, before sheathing?
Walls: put foam on outside, 6 mill poly
on inside, then blow through one or two
slits. I have a huge roll of fg screen
left over from art project--use this for
wall?
Does HD loaner blower work well?
J
*In a cathedral or vaulted ceiling, wont that pesky gravity thing eventually cause the cells to drift down towards the bottom? Just trying to avoid my wifes friends by doing "important work" at the computer. I'll probably be asking a dumb question about every 10 minutes the rest of the evening.JonC
*The specific design I have in mind is a scissors truss, 2.5-12 interior. 5-12 exterior.JonC
*Fred,If the blown-in cels pack together tightly enough to hold themselves in place in a ceiling, does that mean you could blow into a wall cavity using a temporary "shield"? Seems to me I recall seeing a guy using a piece of plexi to do that.Maybe it's mostly a matter of experience working with the material, knowing your equipment, humidity, etc? I'll have to examine it more closely, but the HD loaner was about 2sqx4H, green, and didn't appear to have a side motor.Jim
*Hi Fred,My 4.5:12 inside pitch scissor truss attic is being insulated with 15" of cels as I write this. This fellow is using his smallest H2O nozzle to put a very fine spray of water as he blows it in. The claim is that it stabilizes the mass and minimizes gravity induced slides. He did say if the slope was any steeper he would want periodic baffles installed first.I guess by adding a mist of water the density is increased slightly which helps to conteract the settling.Going to be cool tomorrow,Steve
*Fred,As usual, you've been quite helpful. I'm going to use the screwed-on OSB technique, at least in the first few stud spaces, to get the feel of things. It might be a coupla weeks before I get to that part, but I'll let you know how it goes.Your inside info on putting a tarp under the blower, listening to motor sounds, etc., make this project less scary than it was, even though it's a small project.Jim
*Dear Fred,It sounds like you guys don't do much with sprayed wet cels. I recently watched a company apply this here in SE Ohio. Walls are sheathed outside. Cels are sprayed into each cavity with light water mist. The cels stick as if the water had adhesive in it, until even a 6" cavity is full. Then another guy comes along with a "roller / scraper" which spans 1 or 2 stud bays and "screeds" the cels flush. Excess falls to the floor and is snow-shoveled back into the blower hopper. Amazingly, cels will stay in place indefinitely. They came back a week later to put plastic in place. They even use this method on the interior of concrete crawlspace walls, lightly wetting wall before same application (no screeding, just a 2-3" buildup). Claim none falls off after 5 years. Cels (know you know this) have borates for bug and fire protection. To boot, this method is fast and cheap. FYI.
*AaronDid you comnpare prices for wet-spray cells vs dry-blown cells? I'm interested in hear the price difference.Herb
*I'm having a BIBS (blown-in-blanket system) installed in my new construction in a couple weeks. They staple a plastic mesh over the studs, then blow in fiberglass at a slit near the top. The mesh allows the air to readily escape the cavity, getting a complete fill. There's a glue included in the mix that keeps it from settling and also makes blowing in a vaulted ceiling from below (pre-sheet rock) possible. Then it all gets screeded flush with studs and rafters. I know, doing a ceiling overhead sounds crazy. I'll let you know how it goes.David