Replies

1. 
   WayneL5 | Oct 01, 2003 05:51am | #1

   A solid plywood back, carefully made tight joints with glue and fasteners.  Face frame made of veneer plywood or MDO a little on the wide side (edge banded), and secured with glue and biscuits.  You of course want the whole thing to work together as a solid unit, not slipping at the joints.  Maybe a little wheel on the bottom?

2. 
   fredsmart48 | Oct 01, 2003 07:18am | #2

   The problem I see is this, unless you can mount collectibles so they cant move when the cabinet swings open or shut .  The home owner will encounter one of the laws of motion the one once a object is in motion it tend to stay in motion.  The collectibles won't stay on shelving 

1. 
   4Lorn2 | Oct 05, 2003 06:17am | #6

   Good point. Swing the cabinet out and spend the rest of the afternoon sweeping up the broken collectibles.

   There might be a way around this. Museum wax. This stuff is used to unobtrusively stick delicate pieces to shelves or stands to keep them from sliding or tipping over. A small piece is put under what you want to protect and it is then firmly pressed into place. The wax is sticky but can still be removed easily without damaging the piece or the shelf.

   Commonly used by museums and glassware shops it is also recommended for houses with delicate pieces and located in an earthquake zone. Modeling clay can also be used but it is less effective and can sometimes stain.

3. 
   migraine | Oct 02, 2003 02:03am | #3

   Build the exterior frame of the cabinet 8/4 (1 3/4") lumber and use mortise and tennon joints , just as you would a door.  Then attach the cabinet "door" frame with either traditional door butt hinges or with SOSS hinges(my preference, but more costly and you don't see the hige when closed).  I've done a few of these over the years and when done right, they don't sag.

   Hope this helps

1. 
   sburkeoldmil | Oct 02, 2003 03:38am | #4

   Thanks for the reply,

   I would normally construct the "carcass out of 3/4 ply and then lay the face frame over that. Do you suggest making the face (and doors) out of 6/4. This sounds good and will also accomodate some hefty Soss hinges (probably at least 3).

   I think the back will be rigid enough due to the one piece plywood backing.

   Any thoughts?

1. 
   migraine | Oct 02, 2003 04:43am | #5

   Yes, basically you are making a torsion box with the 3/4" plywood and the  3/4" back.  Just remenber to glue and screw the $hit out of everything.  Screws and nails are not enough.  I recomend a Lamello (biscuit joiner) to attach the frame to the carcass.  Just remember, when you do soss hinges, you only have one chance to make it right.  Double check your layout, use a good plunge router, and do a test run.  If you are not good at making tooling/jigs, buy the soss template jig.

4. 
   CapnMac | Oct 05, 2003 07:07am | #7

   I'm glad no one suggested wat seems to be too common in cabinet shops for the application:  long piano hinges.  Just say no.  They have less adjustability than the soss hinges.

   An alternative might be to not swing the display cabinet, but use some heavy-duty full extention guides.  The pantry shelves could then just be added to the back of the display cabinet.  Tipping curios are less likely due to the sliding (and the larger mass generally meaning slower acceleration--and low angular momentum from swinging).  Museum wax also a very good idea for curio cabinets in any event.

   Either way, see if the display cabinet can be split vertically into two smaller units, the better to control excess movement of curios.

1. 
   TRIGGER | Oct 05, 2003 05:35pm | #8

   Swing the curio cab out first. I like institutional hinges for strength sos for looks. Then build two  boxes with ply in center. Like an I beam. Swing em off a center devider. so you see one side when curio is open. They will swing 180 to reveal outher side with more shelves. Then at the very back of your cab one more row of shelving. Hope theres room . This can fit a 24" deep opening. Even with shelves on the back of cab doors. the curio doors, on the other hand are a great idea.The two sided boxes are sized accordingly In width. Layout full scale.  Baltic birch, no frame, good stuff. Make the hinges visible. Half laps? Think Durability.

   Edited 10/5/2003 10:44:06 AM ET by Triggerski

   Edited 10/5/2003 10:56:45 AM ET by Triggerski

   Edited 10/5/2003 10:58:31 AM ET by Triggerski