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I’m working in a modular home where there are six 2×10’s nailed together for the center beam. This is where the two halves of this modular came together in the basement. Under these 2×10 center joists is a large steel I-beam spanning the length of a two car garage. I need to run several six and seven inch round forced air heating pipes through these joist. I cut two six inch round diameter holes by first drilling several holes around the circumference of a pattern and then I used a sawz-all with a long blade. This took four hours for two holes! Does anyone know a better way?
All Ben-Gayed up,
Mike
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Can you get a 12" auger bit and drill around the circumfrence of your hole and finish the job with a long sawzall blade cutting from one side and then the other? Seems like you could do that in less than two hours.
*I'm not quite clear on this, the steel beam is parallel to the wood beam? If I was doing this job, I first make _sure_ the steel beam can carry the full load by itself, since with the amount of wood you are removing, it will pretty much have to. Then I'd check how everything is fastened together, and if I was convinced that everything would stay put, I'd be tempted to just cut a section out of the wood, with straight cuts all the way through.Well, actualy that's not really true, assuming the steel could carry the load, I would just drill overlapping holes with my 3-5/8" selffeed bit in the Timberwolf, but I'd guess you don't want to buy a $120 bit and an aprroximatly $300 drill for one job.Jay
*You could rent a core drill, but I don't know if they make bits that will cut wood. I've used them plenty of times with a diamond bit for drilling holes in cement. It might be worth a call to your equipment rental place to see what they have.
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You could rent a 1/2 right angle drill (e.g. Milwaukee Hole Hog - about $20/day) and rent/ buy a 6 inch wood hole saw bit - the cylinderically kind with saw-like teeth around the edge. Only drill 1/4 to 1/2 inch at a time and then use a beater screwdriver to chisel out each successive layer of wood. Otherwise you get a huge plug of wood in the bit. And are more likely to get lifted off your step stool when the bit binds.
Or use/rent a quality jigsaw (e.g. Bosch) with a long blade to complete most of the circle. Are there jigsaws with a scroll feature (you can turn the blade relative the handle/motor)? Then you could do the complete the whole hole. -David
*I assume that there were 3 of these 2x10's on each unit and were fastened together at the joint. The joists are probably perpendicular and on joist hangers. If you are cutting out that much of the beam, there will be no structural integrity left. If your are convinced that the steel beam will carry the load,check with an engineer if you are unsure, why not go ahead and just sawzall out a piece large enough for your ducts? Forget the round holes, cut out a whole joist bay.
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If you cut out a full bay (assuming that the steel can carry the load) place some kind of blocking to reduce the possibility of the floor joists rolling (I live in equake country)top and bottom if possible.
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I'm working in a modular home where there are six 2x10's nailed together for the center beam. This is where the two halves of this modular came together in the basement. Under these 2x10 center joists is a large steel I-beam spanning the length of a two car garage. I need to run several six and seven inch round forced air heating pipes through these joist. I cut two six inch round diameter holes by first drilling several holes around the circumference of a pattern and then I used a sawz-all with a long blade. This took four hours for two holes! Does anyone know a better way?
All Ben-Gayed up,
Mike