The kitchen in the small ranch house we recently bought doesn’t have any heating/cooling air coming into it so it is always at least 5-10 degrees different from the rest of our house. I have access to the floor underneath the kitchen and it is relatively easy to run a duct from the plenum to a boot where I can install a register on the floor. So I’ve marked the area and tried to drill a test hole in the floor (from the top down) to see how difficult it would be to cut a hole (4″ x 10″). The floor has square tiles over some sort of subfloor – I’m not sure what it is. I immediately destroyed a couple of wood bits on my drill, it couldn’t go through the subfloor. I then tried a bit for glass & tile – I was able to get through the subfloor with that.
Anyone know what the subfloor could possibly be made of? And what would you suggest as a method to cut through it? I tried my Sawzall with a course grit blade (for fiberglass, slate & plaster) – that didn’t seem to do the trick. I was thinking of picking up a cement blade for my circular saw – I imagine that would work. Problem will be cutting the short (4″) side – I won’t be able to use the circular saw there. Are there blades anyone would recommend for either a Sawzall or a jig saw?
Thanks!
Bob
Replies
I have access to the floor underneath the kitchen . . . .
When you go to the place that has access to the floor underneath the kitchen and look up, what do you see?
"A job well done is its own reward. Now would you prefer to make the final payment by cash, check or Master Card?"
Why not go under and see what the floor is made of ? A slab may cause a cooler floor, in which case your plan may not work. Maybe the tile is just set in a thick bed of mortar? Carefully remove full tiles, and chip mortar with cold chisel, and sawsall the subfloor, replace cut tiles to fit.
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Since you have access from below, take a look to see what it is.
If you see wood, drill a hole upwards and see what you see. Compare with view from top.
To cut the 4" side of the 4x10 hole you will need a 4" or a 4 1/2" grinder. Try to cut from both sides. You can attempt this with a sawzall type tool, but the reciprocating action may unseat the tiles you are cutting through.
You can rent the grinder if you do not own or want to buy one.
My guess is the you have a wood subfloor which supports a 1" - 2" concrete slab, or 1/2" cement board.
NOTE: Since this is in your kitchen, use the grinder to cut but have someone there to operate a wet/ dry vac with the nozzle right at the exhuast of the grinder. Otherwise you wil have a room - including cabinets - filled with a fine but gritty white powder.
Frankie
There he goes—one of God's own prototypes—a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live and too rare to die.
—Hunter S. Thompson
from Fear And Loathing In Las Vegas
Thanks all for your quick replies. Actually, my first attempt to drill was from the basement up. I see wood there so that's why I started with a wood bit. But after getting only through the wood I went to the kitchen and drilled down. For what it's worth, the depth of the total floor is a little over 2". I'd guess the wood at the base is probably around 1/2" (I could be wrong) so that would mean that whatever is on top of that is probably an 1" to 1 1/2" thick. When I drilled, it created a white powder so maybe it is concrete or mortar. The weird thing is the floor is a bit wavey - i.e. the tiles are not perfectly flat like I'd think it would be if it were concrete. I like the idea of the angle grinder - I should have thought of that. I believe I have a couple of masonary disks so I'll give that a try tonight. I imagine I'll have some issues if it is concrete or motar when I get to the wood portion, we'll see what happens. I will also look at scoring the tile to remove it and chipping out the concrete if necessary.This project is not a permanent solution - in a year or so we are going to tear the kitchen down to the studs and start all over - it needs lots of work.Thanks all, I appreciate it.Bob
2" thick ... 3/4" for the subfloor plywood, 3/8 to 1/2" for the tile and thinset, that leaves about 3/4" unaccounted for. Could be a mudbed.
Rather than the masonry disks, go to HD-Lowes and pick up a 4 or 4-1/2" diamond blade for your grinder. They usually cost about $10 for the cheaper ones, and they will last longer then the masonry blade. plus, as the masonry blade wears, it gets smaller, so you lose depth of cut. Be sure to get a diamond blade rated for dry cutting
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Sounds like a mudbed.
How neat does it have to be? What you could do is just drill a series of holes around the circumfrence, and chisel it out.
All,I thought I'd give you an update on my progess. I got out my angle grinder and cut through the area with a diamond disk. I couldn't get into the corners so I then used a chisel to clear the section. It was mud - on top of a wire mesh - about 7/8" thick. Despite the wet/dry vac things did get very dusty - including me. I then chiselled out all the mud and used a sawzall to cut through the wood. Glad it's done - thanks for all the suggestions!
Bob