Replies

1. 
   seeyou | May 16, 2006 12:12am | #1

   Is there a drop off between the two roofs or is it just a pitch change? I can't tell from the pic.

    

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2. 
   Piffin | May 16, 2006 01:24am | #2

   To use asphalt shingles you will have to put some sheathing on that roof first. So If there is a drop, shim it in to make a smooth flow of sheathing.

   The roof to wall on right is typical step flashing. The ridge gets a coup[le lead folds as it crawls up under the high roof.

    

    

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1. 
   DonK | May 16, 2006 01:57am | #3

   It looks like the face wall on the lower roof is an old composite board siding that was painted.

   If possible, I  would remove it so I could get the rest of those roof shingles out off the top of the porch and get new flashing up behind the face wall where it belongs (step flashing or something else). Think about some kind of ice and water shield over there too.  If this is part of a renovation, decide what's going to go on there now.

   Don K.

   EJG Homes     Renovations - New Construction - Rentals

2. 
   tab1 | May 16, 2006 08:01am | #6

   <Is there a drop off between the two roofs or is it just a pitch change?>Drop off--about 1 and 1/2 inches.<So If there is a drop, shim it in to make a smooth flow of sheathing.>I wondered about that. How then to handle the roof on the right? It will also need shimmed where it meets the wall?<The roof to wall on right is typical step flashing. The ridge gets a coup[le lead folds as it crawls up under the high roof.>The roof/wall step flashing I'm comfortable with. The ridge/lead is where I think I'm totally ignorant and could use more detailed instruction.<I would remove it so I could get the rest of those roof shingles out off the top of the porch and get new flashing up behind >That was the plan, just haven't gotten to it yet.<START AT THE BOTTOM AND WORK YOUR WAY UPHILL - NEVER FAILS! :-)>Yea, it's just where the sidehill meets the uphill and the overhang that I'm having problems. Water can easily get in that little triangular area, but my hands/tools cannot <G> so I've got to learn how best too keep the water out of there. Many thanks for all the help.Thon
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1. 
   DonK | May 16, 2006 03:46pm | #7

   Thon -

   As far as the upper area on the sides where you can't  get anything in, do your self a favor now and close that in for a distance of a foot or so. Bring your upper fascia down on both sides in front to the existing roof and do returns back to the sheathing siding so that you lose that triangle for once and for all. Don't forget to flash it before you nail it in. The triangle in the front should taper from 0 to about 4". That gives you enough room to get shingles in in the future.

   Don K.

   EJG Homes      Renovations - New Construction - Rentals

1. 
   tab1 | May 17, 2006 03:45pm | #8

   Sounds like a good idea.<Don't forget to flash it before you nail it in. >You mean under/behind the area I'd be closing in?Thanks.Thon

1. 
   DonK | May 17, 2006 07:36pm | #9

   "You mean under/behind the area I'd be closing in?"

   Yup - that would be it. I would get a piece of ice and water shield on top of the plywood as far underneath as you can tuck it. I would probably put a piece of either flat aluminum or step flashing on top of that, projecting out past the face of the new fascia and set it up so any water that comes down the fascia cannot run back inside, or if it does, it runs "down" the sides and right back out onto the new roof.  

   Don K.

   EJG Homes     Renovations - New Construction - Rentals

3. 
   PV Rich | May 16, 2006 05:47am | #4

   Start right side and bottom of pic. Come up to the upper roof. Upper roof flashing goes over the lower roof. Roof the upper roof. WATER RUNS DOWN HILL. START AT THE BOTTOM AND WORK YOUR WAY UPHILL - NEVER FAILS! :-)

4. 
   rez | May 16, 2006 06:05am | #5

   Here's a downsize of your pic for the dial uppers.

   That is a real clear detailed shot you took. What kind of camera were you using?

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