*
Well, it looks like my original question has been sent to the archives, so I’ll follow-up here.
Mike: I read your articles per your suggestion in issues #132 and #133…that pretty much was what I was looking for.
The suggestion of not using any vapor barrier (due to the fact that ultimately, you will most likely have moisture coming both ways through the wall) was reassuring…that has been my hunch all along, but few have validated it.
I’ve also decided to forgo the steel studs based on the fact that they can remain cold and condense moisture.
My follow-up question is regarding how much of the basement needs to be insulated. I’ve been planning to insulate the outside wall throughout most of the basement, with the exception of the utility room, which will be have an interior, insulated stud wall to enclose it.
Does this room need to be insulated as well to prevent excessive condensation in the summer, or is the fact that it will be enclosed with an insulated interior stud wall sufficient? Should that room be heated?
Again, thanks for the great article!
-Darrel
Replies
*
It's the winter now.
Do you have heat.
If not, how warm is the room.
I did my basement last year and the room was warm enough for me without heat during the winter. I didn't run insulation for the main reason that I my basement leaked 3 times in the 20 years I've lived here. If another leak was to occur, the thought of wet insulation between the walls was not pleasing. Another way to go is styrofoam.
What type of heating system are you using? I have a monoblock hot water system. I tapped into those and the heat this time of year adds a nice touch. I'm using it as a rec room though. Electrical heating is an option but it will cost you
*The basement is not currently heated and is quite chilly (we're up in MN). We have hot-water heat and the boiler is currently capable of accepting another circuit without any problem. I plan on finishing the major part of the basement into the family room, but we are also putting in a full bath and bedroom as well, so my goal is to make the place as liveable as possible. The insulation helps with the temperature, and, what I see as the bigger benefit, prevents air from directly hitting the cold concrete and condensing.Also, with the cold basement, the first-floor floor is quite cold. Heating the basement will actually make the first-floor much more comfortable.Our basement has a water problem history as well, but it looks like we've remedied that with new ground sloping and gutter runs. We'll give it some time in the spring to fully test it, but it looks like we have it under control. -Darrel
*Darrel, I would not go without any poly on your walls. I live in Mn. too and someday you are going to have some water again. I would frame your walls 1" out from the block, and run poly up the back side of the wall, between the block and the studs, stapled to the back side of the studs. This means that you are going to have to build your walls about 1/2" short so you can tip them up. The current code here still calls for poly up the outside wall to grade, then a vapor barrier on the inside. My estimator at the lumber yard just ripped his basement apart ( 3 yrs. old). It was built to code and full of mold. I think you need something to keep the moisture that wicks through the block away from your insulation. The way I've suggested is the way I would do mine. If you want no poly, then I would use tyvek or similar to hold your insulation in place.steve
*Steve:That story about your estimator is exactly what I want to avoid! In my case, I'm going to use the pink styro insulation. The article that Mike wrote was followed up by a letter he wrote after he attended a workshop. There he was told that the reason to glue the insulation directly to the walls was to not allow any airspace near the bare cement where condensation would form. By having the insulation tight up against the wall, the temperature that moisture would condense at actually falls within the insulation, where there would be little--if any moisture. Now, that's only one theory. There seems to no hard-and-fast or tried-and-true method to finishing a basement. For every argument I've found TO do something, I've found just as many arguments for NOT doing it. I may never get started at this rate ;o)
*I'm curious, what is the reasoning behind the decision and recommendation NOT to have a vapor barrier in the basement wall system?
*styrofoam glued and or screwed to the concrete is the cats ass....Did one that came out great this way.near the the cats...aj
*Tedd:The article in question (page 100, issue #132) pointed out that most basements, no matter how damp-proofed they are, can still end up allowing water to permeate through the foundation. That combined with humid summer air condensing creates a lot of moisture that you do not want to trap within the wall. The quote from the article is;> Research and experience have led us to forgo vapor barriers and to build walls that permit water vapor to pass through both the concrete and the frame wall assembly. This construction allows moisture to dry to the inside or the outside depending on season, humidity and temperature changes.Of course, I don't want to speak on Mike's behalf, so, if you are here, Mike, please speak up!
*
Well, it looks like my original question has been sent to the archives, so I'll follow-up here.
Mike: I read your articles per your suggestion in issues #132 and #133...that pretty much was what I was looking for.
The suggestion of not using any vapor barrier (due to the fact that ultimately, you will most likely have moisture coming both ways through the wall) was reassuring...that has been my hunch all along, but few have validated it.
I've also decided to forgo the steel studs based on the fact that they can remain cold and condense moisture.
My follow-up question is regarding how much of the basement needs to be insulated. I've been planning to insulate the outside wall throughout most of the basement, with the exception of the utility room, which will be have an interior, insulated stud wall to enclose it.
Does this room need to be insulated as well to prevent excessive condensation in the summer, or is the fact that it will be enclosed with an insulated interior stud wall sufficient? Should that room be heated?
Again, thanks for the great article!
-Darrel