Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 08, 1999 07:09am | #1

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   David

   Tear it up, dig it about 2" deeper,& dig a narrow trench around the perimeter to allow inserting of 1.5"-2" Expanded Polystyrene(XPS, R5/")on edge down to below frost line. Level off the redug floor, put down a poly vapour barrier, cover it completely with more XPS and pour some more concrete overtop. . . or.. .just tear out enough of the existing concrete around the perimeter to insulate down to frost and repair concrete. . . or. . . cover the existing with XPS and build a wood framed floor over top with sleepers.

   Have fun!!

   -pm

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 08, 1999 09:47am | #2

   *David,As Patrick says, there is no easy way to insulate a slab after it is in place. Perhaps you should look to the above slab structure. Does it have a ceiling? Is it insulated? Are the garage doors insulated? The reason I ask is because a well insulated structure on an uninsulated slab will hold heat better than you might expect. In a temperate climate you could be better off maintaining a moderate level of heat and not trying to raise the heat on an intermittent basis. Another thought. It might be smart for you to build a partition wall between the bays you use for your vehicles and the one you use as a shop. If you insulate this area well it should be a comfortable work area. Most houses around here (NE Ark)are built on slabs with no perimeter insulation.

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 08, 1999 04:46pm | #3

   *Dave, Your post reminds me of my situation in years past.Need shop area,budget;non-existentI agree with Steve to address the insulation. To partition off a specific area, 6 mil visqueen w/zipper door works surprisingly well. For the feet, I put down used carpet obtained from a commercial remodel. Good quaility carpet goes into the dumpster all the time. For operating and cleanup of sawdust, I have yet to find a stronger sucker than the Sears 5 horse shop vac($100-$120)--the only corded sears tool I can recommend. Made vacuum/tool connections w/asst fleible hoses from hardware store.Food for thought, Rick

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 09, 1999 07:16am | #4

   *Dave: a layer of styrofoam laid horizonally along the perimeter of a building has the same insulating effect as if it were placed vertically against the foundation. It should be laid below surface some 6". For more info on this check sources on earthhomes in publications from the 70's/80's, Univ of Minn/U.S.A.You mention you use the shop for intermittent use, the slab is going to gravitate towards whatever temperature is predominant. if you isolate it towards the ground, it will base it temperature likewise. The slab is a heat sink, for it to not be "cold" you will have to insulate to the warmest source, or keep it consistently heated. I do not understand your question about avoiding damage to the floor? What does that mean? I think for intermittent use the most effective and economical means of warmth to the individual is radiant heat, in your climate probably propane radiant or electric radiant would be best. Forget about heating a slab and all the equipment in the shop. The cold won't hurt your machinery, except perhaps the tensioning on your bandsaw... loosen the blade tension until we know otherwise.

2. 
   David_Gartman | Jan 05, 2000 12:31am | #5

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   I use my separate 3 car garage with a concrete slab floor as a workshop and to keep 2 cars. Its approx. 750 sq.ft. and I intermittently heat it with an industrial forced air heater when I'm working. The floor stays cold (in western WA state), keeps my machines cold, and waste a lot of energy.What is the best,easiest, and most effective way to insulate the concrete slab while at the same time keeping it easy to clean and resistant to damage? Thanks for any help and advice.