Hi All,
I have a house (actually two apartments) that I’ll soon start remodeling. I’ll be replacing all the windows, which are currently a mix of cheap aluminum and old double-hung. I will be installing new windows, not replacements, because I’ll also be installing new siding. I need to measure the rough openings to order the new windows, but all of the openings are of course finished with various forms of sheetrock and trim. Does anyone have any clever suggestions for how I can get accurate measurements with a minimum of fuss? I know I could go around and remove all the sheetrock and trim from around all the windows, which of course I’ll have to do eventually, but right now, with tenants still in the house and the new windows at least a month away from delivery, I’d like to figure out some less intensive method.
Thanks!
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Skim-coating with joint compound covers texture, renews old drywall and plaster, and leaves smooth surfaces ready to paint.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Measure the existing windows and match them?
or do as you say and pull the trim from inside, no reason to pull the drywall also
Hmm, sounds good, but some problems with your suggestion (mainly due to my incomplete presentation of the issue!);
* I can't measure the old windows because there are at least 3 different types - how do I standardize where I measure them from/to? How do I know that measuring the windows gives me an accurate (within 1/4") measurement of the rough opening.
* I can't remove only trim because many windows are not trimed - the interior opening is simply wraped with sheetrock. With these windows I think I could measure the interior dimensions of the sheetrocked opening, then subtract the thickness of the sheetrock - can anyone see any problems with that technique?
Basically, I really need to get the measurements very accurate to avoid getting windows the wrong size, which would mean either lots of shiming, lots of re-framing, or a wait for re-ordered windows!
I can't think of many reason why measuring the sheet rock and subtracting the width would be a problem, I can see a few, but in my mind at least highly unlikely.
On the other hand, I normaly don't order the windows I just put them in the hole so maybe someone else can offer a few more better suggestions.
With out seeing the exact window it would be a little hard for me to give you an accurate way to measure it
View ImageGo Jayhawks..............Next Year and daaa. Blues View Image
are U planning on replacing the interior try also?
You......MAYBE........don't have to. Should be a way to work it all from the outside......since the siding is going anyways...without touching the interior.
How many windows? Maybe the yard will send out their window rep and do the measure for you. One window...probably not.....a house full.....maybe.
not real complicated to measure if U know what to look for. Might be measuring the inside edges of the trim....might be measuring to fit behind the extension jambs....all depends what's there now.....
if the trim/plaster/drywall is worth saving...I'd look into working from the exterior....especially with tennants inside. Have works on lotsa rentals in the past....landlords seem to prefer this way.
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite
It sounds like you'll be spending some five digit amount on these windows, so not screwing up like I did is worth some effort. The best thing to do is have them made by a small local shop, small enough that your job is a big important piece of business for them. If they're not eager to come out and measure to make sure they get it right, keep looking. Where is this? Perhaps someone here can recommend a window maker.
-- J.S.
Hey John
I would just take some interior/exterior pics with some measurements to go along with them and take them to a/your window supplier and they should be able to help you out.
Jay
Just a thought, but why not measure the stud locations from the inside with a stud finder. Mark them. Then pound a finish nail through he sheetrock just to be sure. Done.
Jon
Here's an idea in the same vein as Workshop's finish nails. Since the jambs are going too, you could cut a couple of pieces of say 1/4' x 6" dowel and stick then thru slightly larger opposing drilled holes in the jambs/header and sill. Measure in between and add 12". Just be cautious so that you don't drill too deep and get an inaccurate reading.
Heck, I guess you could drill them with a bigger spade bit if you wanted too and that way you'd might better be able to determine/see if you've drilled too deep or happened to hit any existing shims.
Caulk any holes that would allow rainwater to seep in.
Measure thru drywall? How about a shish kebab skewer. You can get the metal ones with sharp ends. I only say that since I keep a couple in a bucket, and every once in a great while, they fit the bill for finding something without leaving a big hole, or placing an exhaust fan (you can see the thing sticking through the insulation up above), or what have you. Thats on my list of silliest ideas I ever had that worked. They actually go through DW pretty easy.
"The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
I did 29 windows myself and did not mess up one opening - take 3 measurements
1 - left to right (inside the exterior sides of the window) and add 2"; 2 - up and down to the bottom of the bottom sash and add 1"; measure the drop from the bottom of the bottom sash to the bottom of the sloped exterior sill and add 1/2" for expansion. Get the Andersen window book and I'll bet you can find a rough opening that is very, very close to what you need.