Replies

1. 
   billybatts | Nov 24, 2007 07:26am | #1

   there is most definitely such a thing made by either Trim-tex or Beadex and failing that use No-Coat corner (comes in a roll) or Strait-Flex(also comes in a roll in a box...yeahyeah sounds like a punch line to a dirty joke)

2. 
   ruffmike | Nov 24, 2007 09:38am | #2

   Nocoat ultraflex 325 is great stuff. Kinda expensive though. Worth it if you have a number of corners. Goes on really straight.

   http://www.all-wall.com/acatalog/UltraFlex_325.php

                               Mike

       Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 11/24/2007 1:40 am by ruffmike

1. 
   brandon1992 | Nov 25, 2007 10:47pm | #8

   you can use a product called straight flex or do like we use to just flair out the corner bead it will open up

3. 
   Piffin | Nov 24, 2007 03:48pm | #3

   I use the No-Coat too

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   jimblodgett | Nov 24, 2007 07:33pm | #4

   Metal joint tape works great for that. Similar to regular joint tape, but has a strip of metal paralell to and along each side the centerline of the tape.  It folds to virtually any inside or outside corner angle.  You apply with the metal against the drywall.  Nice straight corners.  Durable once installed. Good stuff.

   Beadex makes some, I'm sure other companies do too. Get it at any big box, drywall supply house, even some lumber yards.

   Loren Wallace for president.

5. 
   qtsam2 | Nov 25, 2007 12:58am | #5

   all Home Depots in my area carry Staitex. The person you asked probally didn't have a clue what or where it was.

6. 
   McDesign | Nov 25, 2007 01:36am | #6

   Do you mean 135º corners? I always use the 135º galvanized corner bead on verticals on walls - I'm more confident of its resistance to impacts. Ceiling or wall/ceiling transition, I use the various flex stuff.

   Forrest - not a DW guy at all

7. 
   WayneL5 | Nov 25, 2007 10:33pm | #7

   Thanks, everyone, for your advice.

   One more question.  How do you form the joints on an obtuse outside corner?  I was thinking of attaching one sheet of drywall, leaving it long then trimming with a saw flush with the other face, then applying drywall to the remaining face and cutting its edge flush with the face of the first piece.  Like you'd apply cedar shingles around a corner.  Is that the best way?  How do you do it?

1. 
   Piffin | Nov 25, 2007 11:02pm | #9

   These modern corners like No-Coat are fairly wide and do not need a close fit in behind 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   jimblodgett | Nov 30, 2007 04:45am | #10

   Score the face of the rock with your knife at the outside dimension.  Then, before snapping open the cut, go around and score the back side 1/2" shorter.  Now snap your piece.  Make pretty deep scores.

   If are using crisp board you have a good chance of getting a bevelled edge on the end of that sheet.  But at least the paper front and back will be angled so all you have to do is pull the back of your bayonet saw along the edge with two hands (one each side of the sheet) to knock the gypsum down to the angle of the paper.  A small Sureform works okay for that too, but it's one more tool to carry.

    

    Loren Wallace for president.

1. 
   WayneL5 | Nov 30, 2007 07:19am | #11

   Good idea, thanks.