Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 17, 1999 10:02am | #1

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   I think after all this aggravation you must sense the correct solution yourself. Hint: it's not the T&G. And consider Velux.

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 18, 1999 05:56am | #2

   *i would fix the roof first

2. 
   Ryan_ | Oct 18, 1999 06:20am | #3

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   I don't like skylights because they are prone to leaking even if installed correctly. (I have installed several - even though I don't like them.)

   For the stone chimney, stone masons use sheet lead as the flashing material. It can be molded to fit the mortor joinst of the stone.

   Oh, and it's unanimous. Fix the roof first.

   -Ryan

3. 
   Guest_ | Oct 18, 1999 09:01am | #4

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   Britt S.,

   I gotta go with everybody else.......

   Fix the roof.......

   End of problem.

   Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 24, 1999 01:33am | #5

   *I couldn't agree with you all more, and that is just what I did. I recounterflashed the chimney, sealed and reflashed the skylights, which as I said before, are well built. The thing of it is, no matter how right it is now, the roof is bound to leak eventually. This probably going to happen before the life of the T&G is even close to being up. Therefore, can I "seal" them in some way that keeps the "natural" look? Because eventually the roof will leak again, and I don't want the boards to get ruined again. Sorry About any confusion and thanks for any additional info you all have to offer u

4. 
   Mike_Smith | Oct 24, 1999 05:29am | #6

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   3) problems: Stone chimney, skylights , and wood ceiling.
   First the chimney: a stone chimney should be thru flashed with soldered copper. If you took the ceiling down, you could trace the leak before you put it back up. Most stone chimneys leak, if they are a central chimney the leak will usualluy show up inside. Conventional lead flashing doesn't go deep enough, a small fissure in the rock can act just like a funnel and the leak goes behind the lead flash. If the chimney is on an outside wall, you have a better chance that the chimney is leaking , but the leak isn't penetrating the wood frame. So, first investigate very thoroughly and suspect the chimney. If it is, tear it down to the roof and have an experienced copper man solder a thru flash that goes all the way to the clay flue liners.

   2d : I don't like homemade skylights and I've built a lot of them. Most venting skylights are never opened after the novelty wears off so think about a good fixed skylight , or several of them to replace what you've got. The skylights, usually either improperly flashed, or damaged flashing or too steep a pitch so the flashings are being overrun or my last choice--bad glass seal. Easiest to fix though, so investigate, if its leaking near the top of the skylights suspect the flashings , near the bottom , suspect the glass seal. Velux--- Roto , etc. most of them are quality products, well designed,but take care.
   3d: maybe you don't even have a leak--cathedral ceilings love to rain--the warm moist air goes thru the joints of the wood ceiling, hits a cold spot, condenses and it starts to rain, and it looks just like a leak. We use vented cathedral, but in any case we always use a 6 mil poly vapor barrier. If you do have a leak, it probably won't even penetrate the ceiling, just roll down the rafter until it hits the plate.
   As you reinstall the ceiling, apply a finish to the material close to the appearance you want , say Minwax stain with one coat of sanding sealer. Even natural wood can use some help and you have better control if you chose the final appearance rather than letting nature . Apply to the backs and joints and face. There will be less work for the final coat after the ceiling is in place.

   Last, chose a good long life shingle, say 30 or 40 year, pay attention to detail, flashing, ice & water, choice of nails and a roofer with a good reputation. It is not inevitable that the roof should leak, sometimes its just real hard to figure it out.

   I forgot to add that the chimney has to have a cricket, and you should pay close attention to the cap and termination detail.
   Good luck- get it fixed right once and for all.

5. 
   Guest_ | Oct 24, 1999 09:28am | #7

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   Britt

   Good advice above. For the T&G I would use three coats of satin Urethane on the finished side, and at least one on all other faces/edges to alleviate your fear of staining from above. In a couple of years the pine will develop the "old patina" you're looking for. ..no need to stain, that might make it too dark over time!!

   -pm

6. 
   Britt_S | Oct 24, 1999 09:28am | #8

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   I am replacing a T&G unfinished pine cathedral
   ceiling that was very badly water stained due to
   past roof leaks, and was wondering how to prevent
   this problem in the future. The roof is VERY leak
   prone with a stone chimney nestled just above two
   huge homemade skylights. No matter how many times
   I think I've Got the problem licked, The damn
   thing springs another @#*!! leak. So you see, I'm
   really worried about putting up new boards. I want
   the look of aged unfinished pine eventually, but
   if there is some method to seal the boards and
   keep the look, this would be ideal. Also , any
   suggestions on stone chimneys, leaks, etc? Thanks
   for whatever info you possess.