Replies

1. 
   patrickofm | Mar 17, 2003 07:25pm | #1

   The problem is going to be empying out the water so you can do the soldering.  I have used  compression joints when the sysytem was so badly installed that I couldn't get  the water out.  Most system have valves etc that allow you to drain the system for repairs.  Air lock can be avoided on restart if you work out the system properly.

2. 
   NickNukeEm | Mar 18, 2003 01:40am | #2

   What access to the inlet and outlet pipes do you have?  Are the pipes available from the basement?  Is the baseboard heater higher than the boiler?

   Not knowing your system, her's some generic HWH advice:

   If the heater is on a floor above the boiler, and the pipes are accessible, you should be able to drain the system through the return line via the boiler drain, if there are no isolation valves for the zone.  Even if you have multiple zones and they are serviced by individual zone valves, unless they can be isolated from the affected zone, you will end up draining the whole shebang (which is why I put in isolation valves EVERYWHERE.  If I have a leak, unless it is on the boiler, I can take out one zone without disturbing the other.)  If the affected HWBB heater is a high point (no other part of the system is higher, i.e., no heaters on higher floors) your draining problems are not as bad, just depressurize and crack the tubing.  Soldering the pipe is the way to go, and flux, solder, etc. should not be a problem.  Compression fittings would work, be ensure you get brass.  I avoid them; they could leak, though I could be just paranoid.

   Connect a hose to the drain, direct it to a bucket.  (If you have antifreeze, clean up any spills.)  When the system is depressurized, you'll need to vent it to release the remainder of fluid.  If there are no heater vents (typically located near heaters and incorporated into a 90 degree el) then you should take a tubing cutter and crack the line.  Once the system is drained, do your maintenance.  Refill the system and vent throughly.  Crank up the heat to get the system going.  With the circulator running, vent the system again.  (Be careful, it may be hot.)  Any heater that isn't hot, might be air bound and require more venting. 

   BTW, as long as the system is drained and depressurized, to help next time you have to do system maintenance, throw in a vent, preferrable at the high point in the zone, to vent the air out of the system when filling.  Also add a drain valve- low point in zone, and zone isolation valves.  It means a little more work now, but will save plenty of time and effort later on.

   Good luck. 

1. 
   fireball | Mar 18, 2003 06:20am | #3

   Thanks for the help.The heater is above the boiler and there are none above it(ranch).Access in the basement to the supply and return isn't too bad.There appears to be a drain at the boiler,so I guess I'll try and drain it down from there until my set is empty enough to take solder.There's nothing special I have to do about the pressure though?Turn it off and crack the drain valve?And could you please elaborate on venting?Am I looking for bleeders to open and close or what?Sorry to have to ask naive questions.Thanks again.

   Barry

1. 
   NickNukeEm | Mar 18, 2003 04:01pm | #4

   When you open the drain, the pressure on the system will bleed to zero (static pressure is normally be maintained by a bladder/pressurized air chamber located in the system near the boiler.  Your initial drain until pressure is zero essential empties this chamber.)  (If you have an automatic makeup regulator that is valved in, you should isolate that first, or you'll never drain the system.)  When pressure is at zero, you are now gravity draining the system.  Water evacuated (drained) from the system will form a vacuum, preventing full draining.  There should be bleeders (small valves typically located in els near the HWBB heaters that are operated either with a screwdriver, or a special square drive key.  These bleeders are often hidden under insulation, or may be located within the heater itself.)  With the system properly vented, you should be able to finish draining.  Leave the vents and drains open while doing maintenance to allow for residual draining, but be sure to close them all prior to initial filling the system.  When the work is done and the system integrity intact (vents/drains closed), unisolate the makeup regulator to allow the system to fill.  At this point, I go around to all the bleeders and vent off all the air possible until I get a bubbleless stream of water.  Could be messy, so have lots of rags, sponges, etc. on hand.  Once the system is vented, crank up the heat, and when the circulator is running, vent again.  This second venting should release any air that was swept from the boiler and other high points.

   Good luck.

1. 
   fireball | Mar 19, 2003 03:59am | #5

   Thank You.

1. 
   toast953 | Mar 19, 2003 05:50am | #6

   IBEW Barry,  On this one , would you wear your safety goggles, long sleeve shirt , just in case, if you  develop pressure in the system while you are soldering Thanks, Jim J..

3. 
   Wet_Head | Mar 27, 2003 08:28am | #7

   how do you know you don't need it anymore? 

   serious question designed to make sure you aren't going to get into trouble...

1. 
   fireball | Mar 28, 2003 04:31am | #8

   We plan over the summer to convert the  house to forced air w/central AC.Right now though we're in a very tight kitchen remodel where that 4 extra feet of cabinet and countertop makes a real difference.

1. 
   Wet_Head | Mar 28, 2003 05:03am | #9

   cool!  rock on then.