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How to remove this pipe?

xxPaulCPxx | Posted in General Discussion on July 30, 2006 08:18am

This is a vertical vent stack in my master bath.  I’m not sure what it is made out of, but I’m sure most of it will be asbestos.  I have the gear to deal with asbestos.

The top of this stack is deteriorating, and I’d like to replace it above the cast iron.  It looks like it is attached in there with a bead of lead, melted in.

This is the end of the line on the drain system.  I can’t see  a reason that they used a 6″ tube here, other than that’s what they had on hand (water heater and furnace stacks were the same material).  I was going to replace it with a two inch one similar to the other bath vent stack.

Questions:

What is this tube made out of?
How best to cut it and remove it from the cast iron?
How do I attach plastic pipe to the top of the cast iron again?
Do I really need a 6″ vent there, or will a 2″ one work just fine?

Thanks!

Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

Also a CRX fanatic!

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Replies

  1. MikeSmith | Jul 30, 2006 10:01pm | #1

    paul... someone had a piece of Transite pipe and they saw that it would fit in the hub of the cast iron

    you're right ....it's asbestos.. but not a big deal

    you can get a Fernco fitting ( rubber & SS clamps ) that will tie  pvc into the cast iron

    you  could go CI 4" to PVC 4 x3 ... then reduce to  3x2  and then run your vent where ever

    you might even find a 4x2 reducer

    but the fernco is the key

    the transite will break with a hammer

    if you're digging next to a transite water pipe in the road, they'll break just by looking at them

    you could also  put  about 50 screws into it and that will break it

    Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore


    Edited 7/30/2006 3:04 pm ET by MikeSmith


    Edited 7/30/2006 3:05 pm ET by MikeSmith



    Edited 7/30/2006 3:06 pm ET by MikeSmith

    1. User avater
      xxPaulCPxx | Jul 31, 2006 12:35am | #6

      Thanks for that info Mike!

      The house was built in 1960, and apparently Plutonium was scarce so they substituted Asbestos in as many building products as possible in my home.

      Those pipes are Galvy, BTW, not lead.  They lead to the sink drain and to the tub drain.

      Out of curiosity, why would I want to replace heavy walled iron and galvy in a vent application?  I would think this material would work well in the long term.

      As far as demolition, I was planning on drilling a hole in the Transite then using a foam gun to build a plug up from the inside.

       

      Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

      Also a CRX fanatic!

      Edited 7/30/2006 5:43 pm ET by xxPaulCPxx

      1. Stilletto | Jul 31, 2006 12:40am | #8

        Just cut the pipe first,  with a grinder and a cutoff wheel or a sawzall and a metal blade.   Then cut the top as well and remove the whole section.  Breaking it in place is a recipe for have to call a plumber in with a snake. What's wrong with me?  I could ask you the exact same thing.

      2. mcf | Jul 31, 2006 03:10am | #9

        DON NOT DO THE FOAM IN THE PIPE....you cannot control what will fall below section you are replacing and expand in the wrong place.

        1. User avater
          xxPaulCPxx | Jul 31, 2006 05:01am | #10

          Oh please, what could possibly go wrong?

           

           

          Hey, is that soup on the bathroom floor...?Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

          Also a CRX fanatic!

          1. rich1 | Jul 31, 2006 05:34am | #11

            Cutting the asbestos with a grinder is a BAD idea, sawzall not much better, if anyone finds out about it.  Cut the cast and take out the Transite in one piece.

            Remember, EVERYTHING in California causes cancer.

  2. Brooks | Jul 30, 2006 10:06pm | #2

    Q: What is this tube made out of?
    A: More pictures would help. I'd guess painted Galv. pipe with
    insulation (asbestos? maybe, maybe no!) to insulate against cold
    spots on wall from cold pipe. Cypress, CA doesn't sound cold...

    Q: How best to cut it and remove it from the cast iron?
    A: I'd remove everything I could get to, including as much of the cast iron as I could. If you have below-floor access and replace it all you'll have another 50 years of peace.

    Q: How do I attach plastic pipe to the top of the cast iron again?
    A: Cut the iron pipe below the Tee and re-plumb from there on up.

    Q: Do I really need a 6" vent there, or will a 2" one work just fine?
    A: Are you sure its 6"? The pictures make it look like 4". I wouldn't do anything less than 3", and 4" if there's other vent needs on the line.

    These are just thoughts...

    1. MikeSmith | Jul 30, 2006 10:23pm | #3

      brooks .. that's Transite

      you can see the machined end made so it will mate with the next piece

      View Image

      i'd agree that replacing as much of the CI now as possible would be a good move.. IF you were going to retain ownership of the property

      what are those two 2" lines running down at an angle out of the CI main  ?

       Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

    2. User avater
      xxPaulCPxx | Jul 31, 2006 12:39am | #7

      Yep, that is 4" - I got confused looking at the Transite OD size.

      This vent stack has a toilet, tub, & sink... downstream there is another of the same but it only has a 2" vent.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

      Also a CRX fanatic!

  3. Geoffrey | Jul 30, 2006 10:48pm | #4

     Paul, I assume this is a slab on grade, if not then this is the second floor, since there are two LEAD pipes coming into the "T" at an upward angle they are vent lines not drain lines. The pipe in question is probably transite, not galv. pipe. The lead and oakum connection at the "T" can be unsoldered but you must be careful as this is lead, whose fumes are toxic!! There really is no reason to remove the CI, since you will then be working with existing vent lines that are lead pipe. Old New England saying: "if it ain't broke -don't fix it!" All you need to do is repair the deteriorating exterior portion of the vent stack, you could do this by sleaving the transite pipe with appropriately sized PVC pipe and a new roof boot and a collar stop on the inside.

                good luck!    Geoff

  4. User avater
    ErnieK | Jul 30, 2006 10:59pm | #5

    I have to agree with Mr. Smith, that is Transite pure and simple.  It smashes easily so you will have to find a way to keep the pieces from falling into the vent pipe when you break it. 

    It is asbestos but but will stay pretty much whole if you are careful.

    Fernco's work great in that situation.

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