How to replace these sash cords?
FlyingContractor
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Hey Guys,
Rehabing a 1920s/30s bungalow here in the SF Bay Area, and I have some original double hung windows that I would like to replace the sash cords on while I have the trim off. Only problem is I can’t for the life of me figure out how to remove the actual windows from the casement…there’s no parting beads to remove as I have typically seen with this window style. Anyone seen these and have some suggestions?
Thanks!
Replies
You need to pull out the metal liners. Oftentimes they're held on by very small gauge nails. You work the nails out (all) and then raise the lower sash all the way up. Gently pry out the bottom of that metal liner, working it out and down as you go. Same for the upper sash. Repeat the process backwards to re-install. Should have the same wood access plate behind the metal.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Thanks!
I thought that might work, but was a little afraid to bugger up the metal.
Believe me, you'll cuss and moan, bend the metal a bit and probably cut yourself. The little nails will get lost, the panel will be in too tight and don't use nylon rope.
Take your time, work it. It'll come. You don't want to booger up the metal so it'll catch on the sash later. Small needle nose pliers help re-insert the tiny nails.
The red devil thin pry bar is the ticket on this project. Maybe even mini vice grips to grasp the high part of the metal(down low, to pull it out). Don't crush it too much, a bit won't hurt.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I guess the number one question is then, if it's not broke, should I fix it?? LOL
Seconding calvin's suggestion regarding nylon rope.
A large part of my business is rebuilding old double hungs. Getting proper sash cord (around here) is a bear. I order 100' and it costs me $60.00 (Canadian) per skein. Ouch!
I get the windows out and the weights. Mark them from the pockets, because they are different sizes and you don't want to mis-place them (tear off again, to get it right). Make sure the rollers work OK, and oilt them to free them up, they are almost always frozen. Try and put 1" foam, pink or styrofoam, insulation into the inside of the weight pocket and foam it into place if you can. Install the new trim afterwards, caulk and paint.
See if there is any seals you can put into the sliding units to tighten up the connection and lower the wind infiltration. I get mine from Resource Conservation Technologies (I don't have the web site bookmarked, sorry)Quality repairs for your home.
AaronR ConstructionVancouver, Canada
Hey Kid,
I rehabbed the same windows recently, but because the sashes were rotted I had new ones rebuilt. We didn't bother with the slots, tracks etc., just yanked them out with vice grips and threw them away. The result is that the windows now move much more freely - operable with one finger- but they tended to rattle slightly when they weren't locked. To stop this we cut very thin strips of self adhesive felt (white, to match paint) and stuck them to the back of the parting bead. When the windows are latched, they're very tight. The HO likes the way they work now mutch better.
BTW- had the sashes made for around 80 bucks each at A.S.A.P. in Emeryville, CA