Replies

1. 
   saulgood | Jul 28, 2005 06:41am | #1

   Steel. Or lean a chair against it.

2. 
   calvin | Jul 28, 2005 06:46am | #2

   Lisa,  You should take some/all the short studs and run them through the floor and anchor to the joists underneath, fill in the bottom plate.  If running paralell to the joist, then you need to fasten to blocking between the joists.  If a concrete floor, a steel bracket could be fashioned that would work to keep the wall stiff and straight.  In both cases, screws/bolts would be preferred over nails as the fasteners.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   lisakk | Jul 28, 2005 07:09am | #3

   Thanks, Calvin.  I knew there must be some way to keep it from moving around.

3. 
   davidmeiland | Jul 28, 2005 07:09am | #4

   I just did one of those. It's like Calvin days. I used 4x4 for a couple of the studs and ran them into the crawl space below, where I blocked and bolted them to the joists. If you have space below it helps to run them past the bottom of the joists to lessen the cantilever. Things can also be done with steel brackets if you are so inclined, or have a slab floor. With typical wood framing it's not necessary.

   A half wall that's just standing on top of the floor will never be stable.

4. 
   DANL | Jul 28, 2005 03:55pm | #5

   Since the wall is already built, I was wondering if the trick used to stabilize newel posts would work--namely to use threaded rods from the top plate (countersink the nuts) down through the floor and tightened. Seems an easier retrofit than extending studs to the joists.

1. 
   JohnSprung | Jul 28, 2005 09:11pm | #6

   Better to go back and do it right Calvin's way before it gets any more covered up than it is.

    

   -- J.S.

    

5. 
   DanH | Jul 28, 2005 09:17pm | #7

   Yep, either run some posts through the floor and attach to the joists below, or use several "all-thread" steel rods (like extra-long bolts) running from the top of the wall through the floor, to tightly pull the frame together, with doubled studs at the points where the rods go through. Either should work, and how well they work depends more on the quality of workmanship than the specific method chosen.

6. 
   JeffBuck | Jul 28, 2005 10:05pm | #8

   another vote to go down into the floor framing.

   usually a pretty quick fix.

    

   Jeff

       Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

7. 
   Isamemon | Jul 28, 2005 10:36pm | #9

   not exactly the same

   we had a 3/4 high wall that even with framing down into the joists, it still wanted to move. so before drywall sheeting we added a 2nd top plate that was narrower and on both sides of the wall added big angle brackets that went a foot on to the short wall and about a foot on to the wall it was attached to, ON the main wall, we put blocking between the studs, so that this 1 foot of angle, hit solild framing, we screwed it all togther , and that took care of our movement now I dont have to worry about drywall cracks on that wall,

    

8. 
   CapnMac | Jul 28, 2005 11:07pm | #10

   So, this is a free-standing half wall?  No way to tie it into any other existing wall--that right?

   Well, I would have changed it to a 2x6 to give a little extra footing to the floor.  Actually, I'd probably would have tried to find a way to get a built-in in the pony wall; or swapped for a fancy bit of casework like a two-sides open shelf unit or the like.  But, that's me and my designer-opinionated self <g>.

   Since, this sounds like remodel work, there's likely no good way to get brackets under the finish floor/set into the subfloor, either.

   That leaves my other work-around:  Allthread.  My preference is to build a header into the pony wall's stud bays.  I also like to slightly angle the allthread and to alternate the angles (makes a narrow, inverted-V; the 2x6 widht makes this considerably easier.

   Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
1. 
   lisakk | Jul 29, 2005 01:30am | #11

   CapnMac, it's new construction and the 1/2 walls are only free on one end, but one of them is really wobbly and leaning to one side.   I'm going to talk to the framer on Monday about the possible solutions you all have mentioned.  Right now he's right in the middle of framing the second floor which has multiple gables and is all hand cut.

1. 
   calvin | Jul 29, 2005 01:42am | #12

   Lisa, have him try cutting the last stud in the wall (free end) into and below the floor, mounting it well to joist or block below.  It that does it, done deal.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

2. 
   CapnMac | Jul 29, 2005 02:18am | #13

   are only free on one end

   Ah, then perhaps a diagonal let into one side to connect to the perpendicular wall would help (along with a solid attachement to the floor framing as suggested in other posts).Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

9. 
   RayMoore2G | Jul 29, 2005 05:54am | #14

   This method will work very well.

   Screw and glue the bottom plate to the floor. Use long #10 deck screws staggered at 4" on center. Make a very secure attachment to the wall with the stud and the top plate. Make sure all the studs are cut tight to the bottom plate and the top plate. Glue and screw 1/2" plywood to both sides of the wall. Screw the plywood to the plates and studs on 4" centers. Finish as usual.

   This creates a strong diaghram that is surprisingly strong. Be sure it is braced plumb before you attach the plywood; because, it will not budge later. Follow each step exactly.

   Good luck. Let us know how it works out. I find it to be stronger than steel angles.