Finishing the basement and am about to box in the furnace ductwork. I want to use 2 1/2 ” steel studding,( never used before )
Doing the sides of the boxes seems straight forward just like studding a wall, 16″ centres , only shorter.
However my question is when it comes to framing the bottom of the duct box can I use the steel flat to maximize the ceiling height or does it need to be turned on its edge for strength. Using it flat buys me about 1 1/4 inch of ceiling height
Also whats the best way to cut it? Is their a special blade for a chop saw or just use tin snips?
thnx
M
Also whats the best sizIIS it OK with steel to use it on
Replies
Tin snips work fine. I've cut thousands of studs like that.
Using them on the flat will work too. Don't overspan them. Get heavier gauge studs for longer spans.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
MM,
For the vertical sides, screw a stud to ceiling to hang your board from, srcrew another stud to the board at the bottom to pick up your horizontal (bottom). You don't need studs every 16" for the sides,,,,, you don't need any vertical studs. The board will be fine w/o them. For the horizontal span, use "hat track". It's only 7/8 thick. We did one last week with a 40" span, hat track on 12" centers, solid as a rock.
We usually use 1.5" studs (not 2.5"). Main thing,,,, let the board work for you. Don't build your bulkheads out of a bunch of scraps. Picture an airplane wing,,, the strengh is in the sum of the parts.
Sorry if this is'nt making a ton of sense,,,,, one of those cases where a picture is worth a thousand words.
I think if you go to web site of the steel stud manufacture, they have a bunch of ideas.
Best of luck, Harry
Thanks for adding the "hat" track tip Imperfectionist. I haven't done any steel stud work since the early nineties so I'm not that familiar with what's out there. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Thanks think I have a good idea as to how to do it now
Mark
It's also okay to use something like 3/4" ply and forgo sheetrock altogether around ducts. The ply holds it's shape so doesn't need support other than to be screwed together at corners. Cornerbead, tape and texture right over it as if it were sheetrock.
If for some reason sheetrock is required simply cover box with rock.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
I've used my aluminum brake to bend drops out of white aluminum coil stock. Usually, there is only a few inches of the white stock showing and it looks perfect if the grid is white. I still cap the sides with wall molds. If the ceiling of the drop is drywall, it also looks good. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
We use I -joists fastened to the above floor joists rather than assembling anything. If your span is too far for on the flat, I have been successful with the 12" GRK screw countersunk and fastened to above floor joist. That applies to the troublesome spots between ducts.