Replies

1. 
   Danno | Jan 31, 2008 05:09am | #1

   Wow, I don't mean to be sarcastic or anthing, but that's a pretty open ended question! Several things come to mind--in winter you can get away with taking the slick backing off before you roll it up to work with it (If you do it where it's cold--not inside a nice warm building!) and it won't stick to itself (but in summer it will stick to itself if you even look at it wrong!).

   As far as how to work with it--work from bottom up--just like with shingling so the overlaps are such that they are always shedding water and directing it out, never trapping it or funneling it in. Starting under a window opening, it extends past the opening on each side, then cut and fold it over the sill. Then apply the sides, extending them down over the first piece, cutting and folding into the opening at the sides. At the top, I would be inclined to put the window in, then apply the last piece over the top and lap it over the flange and let the ends extend and lap over the pieces you put on the sides. Others may recommend doing the top W&I first, then putting in the window and flashing over the top of it with more W&I or metal flashing.

   There was an article about this a while ago in Fine Homebuilding Magazine--maybe you can look on the home page and find it or someone else here may remmeber which issue and direct you to it.

   Anyway, is that what you meant by your question?

1. 
   BilljustBill | Jan 31, 2008 05:30am | #2

   Thanks, Danno.  It helps.

   I was wondering if coating the dormer sides and front with the material is a good call?  I could take down the 30lb. felt and apply it, just to give me some piece of mind from both wind and water leaks.

   One the sides, I'll be using Hardy's horz. siding, and on the front, a solid piece from a sheet of Serria Vertical Siding...

   On the ground floor, the door will have a sidelight on each side.  Do the same window procedure on these?

   Thanks,

   Bill

   Edited 1/30/2008 9:32 pm ET by BilljustBill

1. 
   Danno | Jan 31, 2008 05:37am | #3

   I'd do any openings (like the door and sidelights on ground floor) pretty much the way I described. I don't know about the side walls--I guess it couldn't hurt, but I doubt that it's necessary. The 30# felt should be fine, I would think.

   Where you have butt joints on the Hardy, you should flash or use W&I or at least felt, behind those joints. 

1. 
   BilljustBill | Jan 31, 2008 05:47am | #4

   Sorry to ask, but what's "W&I"?

   thanks, Bill

1. 
   IMERC | Jan 31, 2008 05:51am | #5

   water and ice....

   roofing membraine....

   http://www.graceathome.com/ 

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

2. 
   RedfordHenry | Jan 31, 2008 06:45am | #6

   For large areas, cut into manageable sized pieces (6-8' long) and take your time to avoid wrinkles and puckers.  If it's really cold outside, lay pieces in the sun for a few minutes to soften them up just a bit.  If possible, store inside where it's heated until you are ready to use.  Probably overkill on vertical wall surfaces, better off with the felt.  Remember, this stuff is a vapor barrier and you need to consider where it will be located relative to your dew point inside the wall.  No point in worrying about keeping out the rain if you are creating a condensation surface inside the wall for vapor.  For flashing openings, I'd recommend rolls of Vycor (also by Grace) instead of I&W.  Comes in various widths and is much easier to handle.  Keep your stapler and lots of 3/8th" staples handy to tack it down where necessary.  In the cold, I'll sometimes use a heat gun to warm it up to get it to stick where I want it.

   By the way, it's commonly refered to as "b*tch" on job sites.  That's short for bituthane.  Gotta get the lingo right.

    

1. 
   rez | Feb 07, 2008 08:12pm | #7

   Also short for what one says about it if the adhesive sides ever connect to itself. 

    

   Peach full,easy feelin'.