See the pic. I want to go and pick out the cherry lumber needed to do this in a couple days. Please comment on the method I have chosen to make things. My hallucinations are shown in the attached .pdf images. I am sure there is an easier way.
Both the handrail/balustrade on R and “falsewall” on L are planned to be made the same way. That is, the posts and caps are planned to be multipiece arrangements with parts all made from clear 3/4″ stock.
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Your drawings seem fine, if you handed me those I'd start building it. I assume you are going to find a way to blind-fasten the diagonal runners at the top into the balusters. Are the balusters doweled into the treads?
I'll state the obvious which is your drawings seem to differ from the picture by including what looks like 1X4 beneath the top rail and against the vertical member (top rail when it goes to the floor) on both sides. The detail in the picture is quite nice, light and modern. I'd be concerned the addition of those additional pieces would make it look much different, more heavy and boxy. I can comment further if you clarify if you intend to include these additional elements. Also, if this will be inspected you will want to check you local code pertaining to handrails and comply. The space between the outside of the balusters and the top rail may need to constitute a 'grippable surface'. If you add those additional pieces under the top rail you eliminate that feature/requirement. In general I'd use biscuit joinery and make sure the vertical member is solid as a rock, try to let it into the floor and secure it to the below joists if possible. If not a hidden piece of angle iron may be needed.
Fortunately for us, there is no inspection to code regarding anything regarding stairs or handrails.
I am in the land where Adirondack great camp architecture reigns supreme, which means stairs are often built with half-log treads, open risers, and railings made from bark-on twigs and sticks in a quite-random pattern.
4" ball test? Not here. Grippable rail? Not here.
I have always been told that most accidents at home happen on stairs, make your house a safe one, my uncle's father met his end when he fell down the stairs. On the design, I don't think you'll need the spacers between the balusters. Also in the photo provided the railing is on the wrong side of the stair. It negates having the treads runing to the side of the opening. Better on the other side to wall off that little display area thingy ...
I agree, it's just common sense to make a handrail useful and not just aesthetic. As built in the photo would work fine. It really needs to accommodate the ability to grip it, about an inch and a half of meat. I think handrails and balustrade benefit primarily the elderly. I recently reinforced an existing handrail and added a additional one to the opposite wall in a stairwell for my dad. It just frightened me watching him use the handrail as much as the stair treads when going down. When the knees begin to go I guess you compensate with whatever you have left.
The design in the photo is beautiful though, have fun building it.
Wane mentioned something about the horizontal blocking between the pickets. I thought the same thing (unnecessary). And if they're not cut perfectly they might telegraph and bend the pickets.
Question (maybe stupid question): if you're not satisfying a code requirement, why the extra handrail? It's a nice little area . . . why muddy it? Unless the owners are infirm (which the handrail in the photo won't do much for anyway), I don't really see anybody really using it for three steps.
You are perfectly right! That will save me some trouble. Thanks!
Now we will just build the divider on the end.