Well, I can’t decide whether to cope or butt my baseboard trim together. Initially, I thought I would cope everything, but even when tracing the profile, I can’t get that little pointed piece at the top.
So, it makes wonder if this trim even needs to be coped. I say that because it’s 3 1/2″ baseboard, mostly flat with a very small roundover at the top. Is there a way to decide whether or a profile should be coped? Maybe I’m going about the coping process wrong (I did do the 45 cut first, etc)
I’ve posted a profile of the base below. The roundover appears larger in the profile than it actually is…
Thanks!
Patrick
Edited 6/30/2006 10:37 am ET by Corrib
Replies
Rather than butt or cope, why not miter?
Hi Pat , Are you cutting the piece on an angle before coping the profile ?
The angle cut shows you the cut to make .
regards dusty
corrib,
always cope.....for your profile it would be easy, as one of the other posters said, cut it at a 45 before you cope, also, i take the end of an eraser and rub the edge with it.....it leaves a pink mark on the rough side of the angle you cut and won't stick to the face of the smooth trim. also, if you back cut just a little when coping, the meat of the cut won't hold the coped edge away from the other board.
for me the biggest reason to cope is that it seems no matter how good and tough your wall corners are, mitres will open up when nailed....the nailing actually sucks the wood into the corner and there will be a gap. in this case, butting would leave a gap at the top.
good luck
Some folks leave the top as a miter, and cut into the square cut with a utility knife. My current practice is to cut as closely as I can. But with something like an ogee top, I don't bother trying to pretend that the topmost part will be a 45. It looks fine, and that little piece is too fragile to survive anyway. I've done plenty of work in high-dollar custom homes, and have had my technique questioned only once.
If the rest of your cope is as tight as it should be, leave it alone.
Hey Patrick,
If your base board is mostly flat, you need to scribe your pieces. Nail up your first piece, then cut your next piece about an inch long and set in place.Use a scribe to mark your piece. Backcut on your scribe line.When you get to the profile just cut @45 * like you were going to cope it,continue the back cut. Measure from your scribed backcut and cut to length.
DAVE