Replies

1. 
   BossHog | Nov 07, 2003 04:00pm | #1

   On the rim joist thing -

   You need SOMETHING under the gable wall to carry the weight from above. It can be a leftover I-joist (or pieces of I-joist) or rim board.

   My book on GP I-joists says they can support 2,000 PLF when used as a rim joist. (Continuously supported.

   If they're telling you to just use plywood as a rim bnoard, I wouldn't buy that. I've seen it done but don't think it's a good idea.

   In giving us the opinions of the uneducated, it keeps us in touch with the ignorance of the community. [Oscar Wilde on journalism]

2. 
   CloudHidden | Nov 07, 2003 04:12pm | #2

   When I used TJI's for my upper floor and porch roof, I spoke with my structural engineer about a few things, and here's what he told me, assuming I remember correctly. I'm not trying to counter any other advice you got, just adding another voice. He said if you've properly sized the joists, to not use blocking, be/c it could lead to squeaking floors. I'm spanning up to 24' w/ 14" joists 12 oc and have no problems with them. He also advised to use the rim board they sell, be/c it has the thickness that will work for the application, and it will expand/contract comparable to the boards it's holding together.

3. 
   SamT | Nov 07, 2003 04:27pm | #3

   Andy, so why don't you find a stack of pallets and make your own X-braces???

   SamT

   "You will do me the justice to remember that I have always strenuously supported the right of every man to his opinion, however different that opinion may be to mine. He who denies to another this right, makes a slave of himself to his present opinion, because he precludes himself the right of changing it."   Thomas Paine

4. 
   byoung0454 | Nov 08, 2003 07:17am | #4

   You can do 1 of 2 things, 1 use rib board on your gable ends or 2, use the I joist. Either way you still need to sheet it over with ply or osb, in my area we only design with the rim board because the framers would hold the I's out past the plate, and were having problems passing inspections. So going with 1 1/8 rim it keeps them from pushing it pass the plate.

5. 
   migraine | Nov 08, 2003 07:29am | #5

   So, while you guys are talking about I Joists, what would the recommended span be for a 9 1/4" with a 2 1/2" cap/edge? Taking in deflections and this talked about vibration that I have read in other postings?  I am having a lumber supplier tell me that a span od 12-13' is ok

1. 
   BossHog | Nov 08, 2003 04:03pm | #6

   Are they 9 1/4" or 9 1/2"? Don't think I've ever seen them in a 9 1/4" size.

   I think you'd be O.K. on anyhting up to 14' or so. I personally like to see a length to depth ratio of 18 to one or less. The span charts go up to 18' or so, but I think that's too far.

   Here's the thread I did on Floor Vibration a while back. There's a lot of info there on floor design.

   The key management tool is still words, delivered face-to-face. Hasn't changed since the dawn of time and is not likely to in the future. [The Way of the Warrior]

1. 
   Piffin | Nov 10, 2003 05:10am | #7

   Luv ya Boss.

   I was just noticing that you have repeated that ratio so often that it is likely to become known soon as the Gospel according to Ron. I had you in mind the other day wondering if it was 16:1 or 18:1.

   Is trher any chance you could change it to be 19.2:1 so us cubit/black dsiamond heads can remember it easier?

   ;).

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   BossHog | Nov 10, 2003 02:57pm | #8

   "I was just noticing that you have repeated that ratio so often ...I had you in mind the other day wondering if it was 16:1 or 18:1. "

   Seems like I haven't repeated it often enough for your to REMEMBER it though...........(-:

   "Is there any chance you could change it to be 19.2:1 so us cubit/black dsiamond heads can remember it easier?"

   How about we make 19.2:1 the standard for tract homes?Anger is the wind that blows out the candle of the mind. [The Mafia Manager]