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A little help, please. This specific question has not arisen, in spite of how familiar this topic sounds.
I have an unfinished area that I want to convert into a bathroom. Currently it has the 3/4 subfloor only. The adjacent areas have 3/4 hardwood flooring.
I want to use hydronic heating instead of electric. And, I would like to have ceramic tile on the floor. What would be the thinnest system I could use, so I don’t have too large a height differential?
(I COULD apply the tubes on the bottom, but that means removing a finished ceiling from the floor below.)
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We have 1 1/2" gypcrete (good base for tile and good for thermal distribution...not the right word, but all I can think of right now). Since you're starting with a 3/4 advantage, that'd leave you with 3/4 + maybe 1/2" for tile as the step. Can get the gypcrete as low as 1 1/4" over tubing, I believe.
Also, just saw a Wirsbo installation of 5/16 tube in grooves in 3/4 ply.
Hope that helps.
*JohnD,Take a look at the current issue of This Old House mag, they discuss this very idea.
*Well, I called our local inspector. He had no idea that you could heat an area with a water heater; he said it had to be a boiler.I took him a copy of the JLC article (referenced on another thread) on radiant heating, and he looked at it, and agreed that it was a legitimate application. He said he would not approve using potable water in the zone, but would approve the heat exchanger idea.Now, to check out the various options to keep the height low. I ain't going to inset the subfloor between the joists. Not with all those screws (McFeeley toughened ones at that) and glue.
*Look at the climate panels at http://www.stadlercorp.com (Wirsbo also has a similiar grooved plywood system). This would be the thinnest radiant system that I know of. I suppose one would use the cement board material above this and then tile. This should work very well for a relatively small space.I heat my entire house (2700 sq ft) with radiant floors and a Bradford White Combicor water heater. I have a separate water heater for hot water so I don't need a heat exchanger.
*For radiant heat in a single room I would say the cheapest and lowest profile would be gypcrete over electric heat wire. There are a few systems out there. I think that setting up a whole water heater/pump system for one bathroom is a bit of overkill.
*Jim Roberts,I was curious about your heating system?I'm getting ready to design a new house ( this time for myself) and am considering radiant heat.I was wondering ( when you have time) if you could share with us the location , 1 or 2 story, and particulars of methods of floor placement and how your operating cost are coming out?Thanks,DJ
*I live in Wisconsin. My home is a 1 1/2 story with a fairly small 2nd floor. I have radiant tubing (Wirsbo) in gypcrete on the entire first floor with 3 separate zones. The basement also has radiant tubing with a couple zones. We have an abbreviated separate duct system for air conditioning (only needed for a short time each year in Wisconsin) and my HRV ventilation system. We don't have kids at home any more and I wanted to shut off the 2nd floor but yet get quick heat if needed for company. I installed a heating coil into the 2nd floor duct system so I can use hot water and my AC blower to achieve a forced air heating system upstairs (it works good). I use a Bradford White Combicor for the heating system which works very well - I think the output of the unit is 75,000 BTU and was alot cheaper than a boiler (I could replace it a couple times for the cost of a boiler).Radiant floors were the best decision I have made in my home. It is very comfortable with the thermostat set at 67-68. The only minor negative to the system is that is takes 12 hours or so to heat up the floors - in the early fall and late spring it would sometimes be nice to have a quick heating system for at night (we often have the floor heat on and just open the windows during the day). We often use our gas fireplaces for quick heat before we turn on the floors. I think my entire heating, AC, ventilation system cost be about $18-19,000 for a 2700 sq ft house (without basement). I think this about $4000 more than forced air - worth every penny.It is a very economical heating system. My last home had forced air and my bills now are about 1/2-2/3 less. I did, however, build a very well insulated and tight home. I used 1" of polyurethane foam (+ fiberglass insulation) in all the exterior walls, R-60 cellulose in the attics, etc.. I spent hours sealing every conceivable place for air infiltration.I would never even consider a different heating system other than radiant floors. E-mail me if you have any other questions.
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A little help, please. This specific question has not arisen, in spite of how familiar this topic sounds.
I have an unfinished area that I want to convert into a bathroom. Currently it has the 3/4 subfloor only. The adjacent areas have 3/4 hardwood flooring.
I want to use hydronic heating instead of electric. And, I would like to have ceramic tile on the floor. What would be the thinnest system I could use, so I don't have too large a height differential?
(I COULD apply the tubes on the bottom, but that means removing a finished ceiling from the floor below.)