I am trying to price a framing job. The exterior of thee house will be insulated concrete forms, and the floors will be quad-deck. I need to give the owner a price on framing the interior walls and setting the roof trusses. I also would like to give a price for setting the windows and doors. What is the process for installing windows in icf’s? What else should I factor in when pricing this job?
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Any details available?
There are a lot of different ICFs and windows a lot of different ways to install window and door bucks, which will affect the way the windows get put in.
Ron
Actually at this point I have no additional details. I will ask the potential customer for any info he may have. I have been framing houses and installuing windows for quite some time. Is the process of installing windows in ICF s something I should leave to someone else, or is it pretty straight forward?
theres probably more ways than this,but heres what i have found. when they frame up for the window before the pour they will make window framing out of 2x12 pt wood or they now have a plastic window buck that some use.
the one i worked on was done in wood and you just set the window and nail it in. i think the plastic framing works the same except maybe you screw the flange down.larryif a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
Captn,
I'm sure you can figure it out, but here's a few tips:
Window bucks are frequently made of wood, which can be 2 x 12's which go right from the inside surface to the outside surface (as above). In that case, you have wood to fasten to - no problem. I don't know how common this is any more. It is quite likely that the wood will shrink away from the concrete core leaving space for air movement, so I haven't done it this way for years.
Some people insert thickened 2 x 6 bucks into the concrete core space which leaves the wood 2 1/2" below the foam surface typically. You need long fasteners to face fasten the wondows. Side mounting straps are better in this case. Shim against the foam forms and add expanding foam. Pretty quick and easy.
Another possibility is a foam buck, a kind of end cap inserted into the forms. These will have a web insert which will hold screws through mounting straps. Same as the last one - shim against the forms and add expanding foam.
Another possibility I've heard of is that the ICF builder might have installed temporary bucks for the pour and then removed them, leaving you with nothing to fasten to but concrete. Your only option in that case might be plumber's strap from the windows to the inside surface of the wall where you can fasten to a web insert. PITA.
Windows which do not have their exterior brickmould or casing installed are a difficult problem which I haven't figured how to overcome for any reasonable cost. There is not usually anything there to fasten mouldings to. Other windows won't take you any more time than in a wood house. Just as in a wood house, the time will go into levelling and shimming, not into fastening.
Ron
Captndestructo.
The trick to windows is a oak buck.
Oak is decay resistant and a cheap wood commonly available (white oak) buy it from the local sawmill and around here you pay 80 cents a bd.ft.
Have it sawn to the thickness of the forms you'll be using. Forms vary in thickness between 6 inchs and 15 inches. I use 2inch thick material. also use stainless stell nails rather than regular nails steel will rot in white oak because of the tannins in white oak.
Build your buck to the demensions required by the window manufacturer's RO requirements..
As an added protection I wrap the cement side with poly. (but admit that's a belt and suspenders approach.
I also put stainless steel lag bolts in at the same height as the rebar is countersinking them so they don't interfere with window install then when the rebar goes in you tiewrap the rebar to the lag bolt sticking thru.. that provides a secure connection between the buck and the concrete.
At the bottom of the window buck you need to cut a large hole to allow to pour cement in.. I drill 4 large holes and cut out a large oval.. Once filled with cement nail a piece over the cut out to prevent the cement from oozing back out under the pressure of the cement above.. (you knock it when when you install the windows)
large windows you'll need to put tempoary braces across the window opening so the buck doesn't bow in under pressure of all that concrete..
You need a couple of other bits of information to price this job properly. for example what are they hanging the floors on.. some people use brick ledge turned backwards some install a ledger board some brace the floor up via timberfame braces etc..
you'll also need to know what they intend to provide as a top nailing surface. I've seen a variety of approaches. J bolts tied to rebar, Simpson brackets, angle iron brackets, etc..