Replies

1. 
   CapnMac | Apr 25, 2006 05:59am | #1

   Check the installation destructions with the cultured stone (and any with the ICF), but , the answer is "yes."

   You treat is like any other stucco on ICF situation.  So, that's some form of felt paper, then lath, then a brown coat.  After that, you apply the stone work.

   If you are using a wide grout joint, or mixing shapes (river with ledge stone, either with brick), it can be a great ide to work from the top down, rather than bottom up.  This prevents getting hard-to-remove thinset from dripping on the already-installed stonework.  (Sure, you can quickly wipe up any spills as you go--but if you miss one, very easy to do with the range of colors, you have a bit of a dilemma.)

   Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
1. 
   DaveRicheson | Apr 29, 2006 03:49pm | #2

   Just saw this post.

   How dow you attach the wire lath to the ICF?

   IN a normal cultured stone over a sheathing board installation the wire lath is stapled or nailed over the felt paper and to the board. Can you attain the same level of holding the lath to foam as you can to sheathing?

   I ask the same question at a culture stone seminar several years ago and got one of those "I'll get back to you answers", so I still don't know.

    

   Dave

1. 
   CapnMac | May 01, 2006 04:46pm | #5

   Can you attain the same level of holding the lath to foam as you can to sheathing?

   Yeah, but you want a broad staple, not a wire staple.  My preference is for a coars-thread screw into the mesh spacers on the icf.

   The foam likely has enough "bite" to hold a brown coat, but you'd want a perfect day to apply it (this monring would be bad, locally, the RH is above 90%, so everything is a tad damp).  I "like" having the reassurance of a mechanical fastening, via the lath, back to the building's structure.  But that may be my personal, belt-n-suspenders, sort of bias, too.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

2. 
   ThumbWhacker | Apr 29, 2006 04:24pm | #3

   I'm looking to do the same thing and I found this article on JLC Online that says you don't need any of that stuff, just slap it on the forms.  If you're tried to pick excess concrete off your forms, you'll see that often the styrofoam form gives before the concrete releases.  The article says to use modified mortar, so I think it will stick very well.  Here's a blurb and the link to the article, which is free:

   http://www.jlconline.com/cgi-local/view.pdf/cf08dc61dabf6baab8fae07f0320349f/

   Installing Manufactured Stone Over ICFs
   July  2005   Similar Articles
   By Stephen Minster   (4  Pages)
   To ensure good adhesion, use an acrylic mortar admix and make sure the faux stones are fully bedded.

   First 100 Words:
   Installing Manufactured Stone Over ICFs To ensure good adhesion, use an acrylic mortar admix and make sure the faux stones are fully bedded Stephen Minster My partners and I were recently hired to apply a manufactured-stone veneer to the above-grade face of a drive-in basement foundation. Though we had previously worked with other, geometric veneers under the same brand name, Cultured Stone (Owens Corning, 800/255-1727, http://www.culturedstone.com), this job was different for a couple of reasons. First, the foundation tucked diagonally into a hillside, with the grade retained on one side by natural stone boulders.

1. 
   scampernatra | Apr 30, 2006 12:24am | #4

   Thanks. I found the JLC article and will probably do as they did. Dave- the foam blocks have attachment points every 8" so attaching the lath if you were to do that would be no problem.