I would like to build what you might call a temporary shed at the back end of my driveway that I would put up for the winter (to house a snowblower and my grill) and then take down again in the Spring, with the hope of re-erecting it next Fall.
Space is a real premium for me, so I would need it to be as compact as possible when taken apart.
There are a number of tent-like solutions available, but they seem to run in the $400-$500 range, which seems awfully expensive for what you get. Has anyone seen any plans for something built out of wood for this situation?
Replies
How about something like this:
View Image
Edited 11/23/2009 12:07 pm ET by lindenboy
Do you REALLY want to ask that question??
To sad that Rez is gone.
Maybe tonight when I have time....... <G>
Do a search on sheds, out of memory to Rez if nought else.
Will maybe take some pix over the coming weekend for my next $5 shed (no zeros!), am actually adding another shed myself this weekend for a few extra compressors I picked up this summer.
Years ago, I built a woodshed that used tempered hardboard for the roof (the rest of it was pallets - not exactly lightweight construction). I had seen this in some old Popular Mechanics, and was surprised at how long it lasted.
There are grades and grades of tempered hardboard. If you take this approach, you want the kind that's dark, dark brown, like good chocolate ice cream. Anything less will just warp at the first rain.
Something like this do?
It stores in a volume 6'H x 8'L x 10"D.
Requires 5 @ 4x8x1/4" MG ply, a couple doz 2x2's and 3" door hinges, 4 @ 5/16 eyebolts to anchor down, a bunch o'screws. You'll wanna paint it with a good X grade.
1 man setup and takedown.
SamT
A Pragmatic Classical Liberal, aka Libertarian.
I'm always right!
Except when I'm not.
Yeah, that would work. Any more pictures? Where are the doors? How is it framed?
C.F.
All dimensions in these drawings are for conceptualizing only. I visualized a 1" overhang all around the top, and exact measurements depend on whether you use sheathing, (7'11 7/8" x 3'11 7/8",) or plywood, (4' x 8',) and the actual size of the 2x2 framing members.
I show the walls 1' above the ground, but there is enough material in five sheets to extend them lower with a more exacting layout and you can raise the entire shed by making the 6 vertical posts longer.
The back end wall fits the inside dimension of the side walls, but the two front pieces, the door and the over-door triangle fit to the outside dimension. Yes, the wall framing at the back end and the door and above-door framing is weather exposed.
Except for the top, framing members are flush with the sheet good edges.
The walls, top, end pieces and door are attached to each other with common hinges that have had the pins replaced with shear pins. See Layout.gif. The hinges should be thru-bolted to the framing members.
Prepaont everything. Assemble the entire shed with temporary screws before doing the hinge layout. All hinges mount to the exterior.SamTA Pragmatic Classical Liberal, aka Libertarian.
I'm always right! Except when I'm not.
SamTA Pragmatic Classical Liberal, aka Libertarian.
I'm always right! Except when I'm not.
First, there's this tent style. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42211
But if you're against that, google ice huts. Most of them have to be disassembled at the end of season.
Here's one http://www.wisconsinoutdoor.com/iceshackplans.htm
Edited 11/25/2009 7:40 pm ET by Dam_inspector
I wish you people would get away from the concept of 2 X 4s. Think instead of 1 X 4s. Think of airplane design.
Right there you've cut the weight of your structure by 50%.
~Peter
I have wondered about light construction. Looking at building an insulated trailer or a shell for my trailer that would be a shed at the job site then load it up and take tools to next sight. Any websites on airplane design?
I do the hoophouse like another missing poster uses. Rebar pins in the ground and elec. conduit bent in an arch like a quonset hut. Use the next size up conduit and cut 2" hunks, then saw long wise about a 1/3rd of the diameter off the side. These make snap on clips for holding a tarp.
Works real well, mine so far has stayed put through some serious storms.
I did tie the tarp grommets to some logs on the ground, and wrapped the ends with bungees.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
> (to house a snowblower and my grill)
How about a tarp? Shouldn't need much more than that, other than maybe a few bricks to hold down the tarp edges.