Ok we’ve done this a couple times before but now I would like some fresh input.
we are taking out the first floor walls of brick and putting in a steel beam to carry the brick on the second floor.
the walls are two brick thick ,two are interior and load bearing and the other two are exterior and load bearing.
how would you support the upper brick while tearing out the lower and putting in the beam?
Replies
how wide?
they range from 10 to 14 feet
The typical method is called needle and shore. It involves cutting a small hole through the wall, inserting a needle beam and supporting it on either end.
Remove the section below the needle, install the girder, then patch up the opening made for the needle.
On wide openings you may need to install multiple needles.
Rich
On the larger openings that require more then one needle do you just trust the brick between the needles to hang there? and how far apart do you recomend the needles? thanks
If the brick is solid, it may be ok. If the mortar is weak don't trust it. Cut and install angle Iron lintels to sit on the flanges of the needles and wedge them tight to the underside of the brick. Work one side at a time to install the angles.
Spacing on the needles would depend on strength of mortar, weight above, openings above, width of opening. Generally space them the width of a typical opening and make sure your lintels and needles are strong enough to carry the load.
You may want to consult with an engineer. Who is specifying the steel to support the walls?
An engineer is calling the sizes but has noyhing to do with procedure, so I thought I would tap some of the keen minds of BT. thanks
any ideas professor?
How would mike smith do it?
needle and shore....you know how if you are trenching ? you can assume a cone of stability for normal soil of 45 degrees ?
well i'd assume a cone of stabilty in the supported brickwork above of 45 degrees Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
You got any input Duane?
When I first saw the post last night (?) I thought "needle beams". I see it's been brought up, so I musta been on the right track.
My other inkling would be get the lintel in before removing all support, but w/out seeing it, I can't say for sure how feasable that would be.
Maybe some corruption of the two ideers is the method, but again, I'm as good as blind looking from here.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
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Mike, width of opening is the deciding factor. Entry door, I wouldn't worry too much-still wouldn't leave overnight w/o shoring.
Large-a few options, one listed above.
We opened a 14' x 7' in 4 brick thick wall.
Horizontal over-cut clear through (from both sides) enough to slip I think maybe 1/2'' plate steel across to the other side.
Used spec'd U Channel bored and bolted to each other on each side of the opening with the open U facing out.
Flushed up the plate to both outsides of the Channel. Welded the plate to the bottom.
Took out the brick and pointed in the bearing ends after shimming.
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I like it. I may try it on some of these openings
all the openings are10' and larger up to 15' one is in the basement and has floor
joist running parallel to it and one tight to each side so they have to go and the new
beam has to be recessed in the floor.and it will then hang from one going
perpendicular that i have to put in. craziness I tell ya! similar situation on 2 different
jobs. both going on simultaneously have already torn out numerous load bearing
walls and put in lvls this is a job in Bexely about ten thousand sq. ft. remodel 99%
inside.Did I mention I hate plaster dust!! It gets everywhere and you can't ever seem
to get it all cleaned up, but the nail gun always finds it :)