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Infloor Radient Heat Questions

Homer | Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on June 9, 2003 03:11am

I am considering sometime in the not too distant future to build a new home, in the Mat valley north of Anchorage, AK.  I plan on building with ICF’s and I have a question about cost vs. efficiency of in floor heating.  I realize that costs will be geographic dependent but has there been published a chart showing the ratio of costs per sq. foot for the various types of infloor heating methods?  Example the chart would show what a basic framed floor, TJI or similar with perhaps base board heat would cost as a base line. Then show what it would cost to factor in the extra weight of gypcrete (extra stringers and extended plate plus the gypcrete its self with the labor to install).  Optional methods including the subfloor with the routed channel installed to lay the tubing plus the cost and labor of the tubing.  Another method I have seen is a standard (non reinforced floor) with the tubing attached underneath the floor and insulated from below.  I realize each of these floors would have their pros and cons,  the gypcreate would be the most quiet of these type of floors and I think the most expensive.  I guess my question is basically is it worth all the extra cost verses the alternatives? I also would like to do as much of the work I can myself.  Thanks much in advance.

Jim in Anchorge

Reply

Replies

  1. User avater
    CloudHidden | Jun 09, 2003 04:04am | #1

    I visited the Matanuska (sp?) Valley when I was about 7 and we spent a month in Alaska, and remember the large cabbages! Fond memories. You don't mention a slab. Is this an elevated floor? Or, if the main floor, some reason to not consider a slab? With the mass of the ICF wall, a hi-mass floor would seem compatible.

  2. Wet_Head | Jun 09, 2003 05:03am | #2

    be there next month.  know a thing or 2 about it.  wanna meet for coffee?

    as to your question... I know of no charts like that.  My suggestion is to establish what you can spend on this part of your new home and see what you can do for that amount.

    PS.  I will be doing a job in Wasilla the last 3 weeks of July.

    also due to my research I can hook you up with some decent guys up there that will work with you on this.

    are you doing oil or gas?



    Edited 6/8/2003 10:05:40 PM ET by Wet Head Warrior

    1. Homer | Jun 09, 2003 06:19am | #3

      Thanks for the reply, I would like to get togather for coffee, let me know where and when.  I am on vacation from my day job from the 28th of May to the 17th of July. I plan on dipnetting the Kenai at some point during the (hopfully) peak of the red run in that peroid, otherwise would be able to come out to the valley and look you up.

      BTW this whole construction idea is just that, an idea at this time. I am trying to accquire an education in at least primary design/build to either build it myself or work with a builder who will allow me to work with/for him and listen to my ideas.  I with help built my present home 24 years ago and it is still standing so I guess I did ok, at least the MOA keeps upping my apprasial every year. 

      I am considering building a multifamily unit for my daughter, her family and my wife and I. Thinking along the lines of a two story home with a walkout lower level (two stories above) apartment for us on the lower level and then the larger portion of the house for the kids above.   I took the weekend course on ICF construction in Wasilla at the ECO block distribuitor Polar Fusion.  I was impressed with the ease a diy'er could put togather a shell.

      Later

      1. Wet_Head | Jun 09, 2003 06:36am | #4

        please don't take this as egotistical... but nearly all my friends ask to pick my brain before they build a house.  I enjoy it and get all into it then I feel like a fool because I am just a plumbing and heating guy.  But they all say "No!  You helped me so much I feel like I owe you something."  Knowing I helped is enough payment.  Ususally my ideas ARE REJECTED in the final plan.  I tell them to expect that.  But I helped them find out what they truly wanted and that was the plan all along.  The thought of going to school to be an architect often crosses my mind but it conflicts with more important values so I shrug it off.

        please don't take this as bragging.  I feel very self conscious posting it but my desire to help is stronger.   Because I enjoy it.

        1. Homer | Jun 09, 2003 09:29am | #5

          No problem, you are a professional in your field.  I enjoy and appreciate your candor and hope that I can learn a few things in order to build or have built a better home.  Thanks in advance for your help, btw coffee will be on me.

          Jimf

          1. blackcloud | Jun 10, 2003 01:23am | #6

            Jim,

            If Wet Head was giving me advise I would buy breakfast, I have read a lot of his advise and it has been very informative and based on fact.  Good luck with your project.

            Jason  If it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have Any!

          2. Homer | Jun 10, 2003 07:25am | #8

            Good idea Jason, will do. I have no problem paying for breakfast. 

            Thanks

  3. rebuilder | Jun 10, 2003 01:50am | #7

    I am not aware of any such chart. I would recommend pricing the slab and going from there. The truck is gonna be there anyway, what's a few extra yards?! With an ICF structure, the slab will only add thermal mass to your home. This makes it more energy efficient year-round. If you do some homework you should have no trouble doing all of the gruntwork for the set-up. Radiant heat in your area will pay for itself in a few short years, especially in an ICF structure. Also check in to a Geothermal heat pump. Might be another option. Good luck!

    1. Homer | Jun 10, 2003 07:40am | #9

      I planning on pouring a slab prior to putting up the walls.  I think it is much easier to build from a slab.

        I may pour a "fastfoot" type footer first then pour the slab after that sets up.  Geothermal does not do well in this north country as far as I know.  The temperature differential is not great enough to extract much heat from the well, the water temp is around 34f.  My daughter wants to put in a "Finnish" Tulikiv (sp?) style stove.  Jury is out on that as I plan on having in floor radiant heat using a gas boiler.  Will put in some kind of back up heat source, probably a smaller soapstone free standing unit.

      Thanks  for the good ideas

      Jim

      1. rebuilder | Jun 10, 2003 07:57am | #10

        I thought that the geothermals extracted air from a coil set in the permafrost layer (ab. 55 deg.) but I may be mistaken. I'm a fan of the soapstone stoves too.

        That toasty floor sure is gonna feel good when you kick those boots off next winter.

  4. User avater
    SamT | Jun 10, 2003 12:37pm | #11

    Try some of these for ideas

    Alt Energy Tech Notes-Alaskan

    geothermal heat pumps

    Radient Heat Info

    radiantheatingweb.com

    SamT

    1. Homer | Jun 10, 2003 07:38pm | #12

      Sam, thanks much I bookmarked them.  They look great.  Thanks again for going to the trouble.

      Jimf

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