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I need info on coffered ceilings. Seems like I saw an article just lately in one of the periodicals that I get on these ceilings. Anyone know of one or other source of info?
TIA
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"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
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Matt,
There was definately an article in FHB some years back, but I can't find which issue. I've done a couple of them (coffered ceilings) if it's a specific question go ahead and run it up the flagpole.
Richard Max
*I just copied a FHB article out of a "Frame Carpentry" book (a collection of past FHB articles) at the local bookstore that gives some nice drawings of a coffered ceiling pattern. The underlying framing is 2x6's on the ceiling to form the "tic-tac-toe" pattern along with about 6" pieces of 2x6's extending down the walls for each beam. The finished sides of the coffer are 1x6 boards and the finished bottoms of the coffer are 1x6 boards with a routed pattern on the sides. It also included 1x6 finished boards as an apron around the top of the outside walls and then crown moldings around the perimeter of each of the 9 boxes.
*Jim:Thanks for the info. I'll have to go to a bookstore and look for FHB "Frame Carpentry" book.
*Matt G.
Joseph FuscoView Image
*The FHB article I was referring to was the one from Issue 75. It was in the "More Frame Carpentry" book.
*Matt,Depending of the style, we may be able to give you some tips. I've done a lot of these too. Learned a lot from experience.Call back with more info.Ed. Williams
*Joe: Thanks for the pictures. A picture is worth a 1000 words, and I believe that many people, like myself, can build from a picture better than a bunch of verbiage. Image #2 is similar to what I want to do, only I was thinking of just framing it up with 2x4s and 2x6s and then let the drywall guys do the wrapping of the "beams". Then dress it out with crown molding. Image #3 - the barrel vault, or whatever you call it, is way beyond cool, and way beyond me. All: Here's my question: When attaching the false beams to the ceiling, (2x10 ceiling joists only, no drywall yet) can I get away with just shooting 'em up there with 3 1/2" ring shank nails, or do I really need to make it structurally sound - i.e., tied into the walls & supported with jacks, fully lapped at "beam" intersections, etc.? Attached is a quick drawing of what I have in mind. The design goals are: A) to give the large flat ceiling expanse interest, and B) visually, bring down the 10' ceiling a bit. Thanks, Matt
*MattYour drawing was a real pain for me to download, but it looks like the way I would do it. . . I've never done one that was to be covered with d/wall, so used 1x as side pieces, and to cover the 2x4 I screwd to the ceiling framing. . . by the way I would use pine rather than your typical framing lumber in case of twists etc.-pmps is Sean doing something new with the jpg files, this one had to first download into my drawing programme,which had to boot up, and then come up on the screen,as a seperate window ini that programme and of course the entire process caused Netscape to disconnect from my ISP. Blahhhhhh!!!!!
*Matt G.,We don't use 2x material to make the substrate for a coffered ceiling. 3/4" plywood will work well. You can still attach either drywall or finished lumber to it. We make a skeleton frame-work with a continuous plate (so to speak) on the ceiling, and another plate running however far off the ceiling you want it to create the depth of your coffer. The two are connected with plywood ribs. If you were to stand this up on end it would look like a tall thin cabinet of cubby holes with no back and shelves at about 24" on center. (Make sense?) I tried to explain this once before to another poster. You can build these up on the floor and attach them to the ceiling before or after drywall. There is no need to make this structural. It is just fluff. Good looking fluff, but not structural.I hope this works for you.Ed. Williams
*Patrick:Sorry about the trouble with the drawing. I'm sure it was the way I posted it. Not sure what the best way is. Have read the help files but they don't seem too helpful! I use the quick-edit function to do my posts, but am guessing that some people use fancy web publishing tools to do their posts (Joe).I could screw the material to the ceiling, but I've got these 16p ring shank nails that only go one way (in, but not out).Ed:So, you rip a bunch of 3/4" plywood, build tall skinny "bookcases" and then attach them to the ceiling? I think I got it, but I can't quite picture the preassembly of these "bookcases". If I read you right, it sounds like I would be nailing (or screwing) into the edge of the plywood ribs?? Not sure I understand how I could get a firm assembly - I usually try to avoid attaching into the edge of plywood?
*MattGot called to dinner and missed the edit time frame. . . one more thing. . . I would rethink the proportions you showed in your drawing. . . by the time you cover the i inside edgesof the 2x6 sides the inside flat/face will only be 2.5" or less wide, (further reduced by moulding?)but 5.5" deep on the outside. To my eye, wider and "flatter" looks classier than narrow and deep!!! I like the look of the coffered "beam" having a shallow "indent on the inside, maybe 1", your design , taking d/wall into account would be 4" deep x 2.5" wide.-pm
*Patrick:I think you are right. The size that I drew the beams wouldn't work too well, especially with width of crown molding that is being used in the house. I need to carefully plan the dimensions of the faux beams, however, first I gotta get the construction method/technique figured out.On the other hand, I am having trouble following what you are saying with the dimensions you give - when you look at the drawing, look at the "ceiling lines" on the cross sections.
*MattFor the moment I'll forego downloading the drawing again. You showed a i U shaped "beam frame" with 2x6 sides and a 2x4 inside on the flat. The 2x6 sides will d/wall out to be 5.5" or 6" on the outside(depending on placement of substructure before or after ceiling d/wall) and 4" on the inside, assuming 1/2 d/wall on all exposed surfaces. The 3.5" 2x4 on the flat will lose 1/2" to each side leaving an exposed flat of 2.5". Outside dimensions 5.5"-6" by 2.5". The inside of the i Uwill be 4" x 2.5".Okay??-pm
*Patrick:Let me try posting the drawing again. This time your browser will not need to spawn an external viewer (helper application).Look at the line that I added labled "drywall".
*Matt,That would be the side of the unit. The ribs hang down with the bulkhead pieces at the top and bottom. The sides are open. You screw or nail one of the the solid sides to the joist. I'd post a drawing but I don't have a clue as to how to do that. Email me a fax# and I'll send you a drawing.Ed. [email protected]
*MattThat was a Painless drawing download, but now I have a pain in my head. . . sorry, completely missed your Line Of D/wall before.i Mea Culpa!!!By way of excuse, I've never seen ai Coffered Ceiling with simple d/wall boxes like you propose. . .. they always have the shallow U detail that I kept referring to. . . much classier than your proposed boxes( pardon my overbearing opinion). . . but way more finicky.Anything else I can confuse for you, don't hesitate to call!!-pm
*Matt,Just found your drawing...looks good.That will work just fine. 1x or 2x your call.Hope I didn't confuse things.Ed. Williams
*Ed:Actually, at this point, I'm thinking of combining ripped plywood with some dimensional lumber. I think Patrick's point about 2x lumber twisting up is a real concern. Plywood would stay straight, and I could get wider and deeper "beams" than with dimensional lumber. If you really want to fax me something, my fax # is 919-677-0279. (It's in NC) I would really appreciate it.By the way, the 2 easiest ways to post a drawing are to:1) scan in a photo or other hard copy on a scaner, or2) draw a diagram with a drawing package (cad software) - which is what I did for the drawings I included earlier Then use the "Attached File" just below the reply edit window.
*Matt G.
Joseph FuscoView Image
*Matt G.,I don't think you need me to fax you anything at this point. Sounds like you're on the right track.Ahhh...North Carolina....I spent a couple of summers there when I was young in a place called "Montreat" (sp?) outside of Ashville. It was a choir camp and we were sent there by the Presbyterian church choir that I was a member with at the time. Lots of wonderful memories. Beautiful place. Good Luck, Wish I was there....Ed. Williams
*Ed, Joe, Patrick, et all:Thanks for the great input. I think I'm on the right track, now all I gotta do is finalize the plan and make it happen.I'll try to post pictures once the finish work is complete.
*Joe,Got any idea what the four black holes at the bottom of the bays are?Ed. Williams
*Ed,
Joseph FuscoView Image
*EdThey're for what all Black Holes are for. . . anti matter ain't it ?Every bay window should have a few for sweeping dust and debris into. . . notice the conveniently positioned broom in the pic??-pm