Replies

1. 
   BruceT999 | Mar 03, 2007 09:26am | #1

   8" thick concrete walls? What, are you remodeling a missile silo?

   5/16" redheads or lag screws with zinc lag shields should do it; minimum 2 1/2" into the concrete, assuming normal wood doors, not armored blast shield doors are to be installed.

   http://www.confast.com/products/thunderstud-anchor.aspx

   BruceT
1. 
   misfit | Mar 03, 2007 05:35pm | #4

   8" thick concrete walls? What, are you remodeling a missile silo?

    

   Foundation wall maybe?

2. 
   dovetail97128 | Mar 03, 2007 09:29am | #2

   I would use epoxy anchors. You can purchase fast setting acrylic epoxies and anchors for this at most lumber yard or the Big boxes.Or SS all thread and a washer and nut. (SS because the PT will eat other metal when water is present, although supposedly at 1/2" diam. I am told you are safe..)
   Alternate is wedge anchors or "Pin" anchors that use expansion of the barrel to anchor the bolt to the concrete. The expanding style stress the concrete more than epoxy does.
   You will need a roto hammer for the drilling.
   I am assuming that 2x PT stock for the rough jamb. With the dimension you give it will be tight to get the nuts on the anchors and have clearance for the jamb stock, you might have to counter sink the PT a bit to make it work. You may even have to dadoe the back of the jamb to allow the jamb to slip over the nuts.

1. 
   peteshlagor | Mar 03, 2007 05:27pm | #3

   In a wall like his, using expansion anchors, in which direction should one line up the expansion wings?

    

1. 
   dovetail97128 | Mar 04, 2007 05:02am | #5

   Doesn't matter I wouldn't imagine. But then now that you mention it I would be tempted to place the "wings" in a verticel orientation. I just don't like wedge anchors myself, too many fractures and blowouts over the years.

3. 
   grahammay | Mar 04, 2007 06:30am | #6

   Use a Bosch bull dog hammer drill or similar and Tapcon anchors, with all the issues with pressure treated lumber, insure compatibility between chemical preservative and metal in fastener.  Or just use framing lumber thought it could be affected by water if present, but can be replaced 10 - 20 years done the road if necessary.

4. 
   bkhy | Mar 04, 2007 07:27am | #7

   gripcons,

    also known as permagrips- better then tapcons,wedge anchors, sleeve anchors,lead anchors,plastic anchors

   
   

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   Edited 3/3/2007 11:28 pm ET by bkhy

5. 
   ponytl | Mar 04, 2007 07:32am | #8

   liquid nails... wedge it in place... in 24 hrs remove wedge boards... it'll never go anywhere

   p

6. 
   edda | Mar 04, 2007 10:33am | #9

   I thank all for the ideas. yes it's something like a missile silo. two story wall backfilled. I dug it out to add on. abt 100 truckloads. the door is 42' solid core.something like a blast door,seems as heavy as one when I carry it. I had pretty well concluded I would drill and epoxy 1/2" anchors into the concrete and pack behind the 2x board with expanding grout because of the rough surface.suck it up to virticle with the bolts and drink good micro brew until either I or the grout is cured. I only 'hoped' there might be an easier way. thank you Edd

1. 
   VaTom | Mar 04, 2007 04:06pm | #10

   >I only 'hoped' there might be an easier way. thank you EddThere is.In my all-concrete houses (minimum 8" wall) I use tapcons through whatever 3/4" frame, usually oak. To isolate the frame from the concrete, I use shims cut from pressure treated wood. For the new pressure treated wood, you'd want to leave a little space between the tapcons and the shim.This pair of doors (inner is 48") is considerably heavier than what you're hanging:PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!

   Edited 3/4/2007 8:07 am ET by VaTom