Hello all,
I’m installing a pocket door using Acme pocket door hardware, and I seem to have a problem. When I cut the header where the marks are for a 30″ door, I’m left with a header length of a little over 60″ when both end brackets are attached. I’ve cut the header exactly where the marks are for a 30″ door for those of you that have done this before. However, the instructions (and everything else I’ve researched) says to make the rough opening 2 times the width of the door, plus 1 1/2″. This makes the rough opening 61 1/2″. I’m now left with a header about 1 1/2″ shorter than the rough opening. Even though I’ve never installed a pocket door before, I’m pretty confident I’ve made all the cuts exactly where I’m supposed to. This leaves me with the 60″ header in a 61 1/2″ opening. I can make the opening narrower, but is that the correct thing to do? If someone has experience with this I’d sure like to hear from you. This seemed like a pretty straightforward project. If pictures would help, I’d be happy to attach them.
Thanks,
John
Replies
it's been a while since my last pocketdoor install-but.
I looked over the install instructions from Acme (I use Johnson) and it says to slide the header bracket out and fasten it to the studs either side.
I saw nothing in the instructions about where to cut the header-so will assume that was written on the header assembly.
Since the header is mounted firmly to the bottom of a header or plate and is centered in that rough opening-you shouldn't have a problem. That it's not crammed in there should not be a problem either.
I have been told ...
to consult my supplier or call an engineer, but you do don't ... I would think you would have a jack or trimmer stud on each side of teh pocket and therefore would have teh header cut to the pocket width Plus 3 inches. But many here will still tell you to call your supplier or and engineer. Or perhaps white glue will help.
excuse my typo -
... but if you do not ...
Do
anything worthwhile to add to the conversation?
Just taking your lead Calvin.
"Consult your supplier or engineer".
Of course refering to jack studs is valid. And suggesting that one allow for the width of the finish jam material is valid. But your none advice of consulting suppliers and engineers is valid as well, just a waste of words and requiring the reader to take another step. Other than that....
Learn from the best, I always say.
Do
Rough Opening
Jacks included as well as the space for jambs.
That's why it's called a rough opening,
no?
Hey John, I am not familiar with that brand of hardware. Does it use steel wrapped spruce for the studs that make up the pocket? I use Johnson hardware which calls for a rough opening of "door width plus one inch." In the end you want your 30" door to be centered in the trimmed opening. If you find that you've cut the track short, you can always add what you need in blocking at the inside end to the header track. The blocking just has to be high enough on the inside stud so as not to stop your door from "pocketing" all the way. I'll look for a drawing of this hardware and see if it makes more sense to me.
Sorry John, I misspoke there... I meant to say "2x door width plus 1 inch" is the standard rough opening for pocket doors. I looked at the ACME site and it is indeed the same. The text says this, but the picture shows a caption with "2x door width plus 1 1/2". For a 30 inch door the rough opening is 61". The cut you make on the track is usually a litte shy of this number and the bracket that you attach to the inside end is usually adjustable to make up any difference. I would be surprised if it came up a whole inch short if you cut it right. Either way though, shrink the opening to 61", and pad out the bracket inside the pocket 1" and you're back in business. When you install the rollers on the top of the door center them over the rail to stile joint so you get one screw in the end grain (stile) and one in the edge (rail). and predill for these.
well Cal ...
Prehaps you did not read the post or have trouble with such. The poster said he cut the "HEADER" to twice the door width. Perhaps he was talking about something else, but if you cut a header to the width of a door and do not account for the jack studs, you have a problem. I would have thought you would have run accross a header in your day. Of course birdhouses don't use heders LOL. At any rate obviously the problem, as I previously posted, is in accounting for finish trim jambs if not jacks. All elementary stuff for me if not so for you. you tell me the poster accounted for finish trim and I will say "My bad". But you can not say that, so my point about jambs is spot on. Perhaps you should take your own advice and consult a consultant.
jeezus
You are one pain in the ass.
Pocket header that he is talking about is not the structural header-look at the directions...............too close to consulting a supplier?................header=the couple pcs of wood surrounding the "track". It has marks on it as far as where to cut to fit up into the opening (structural header is there if required-making the opening to size for all the crap that will go under it).
no?