Replies

1. 
   fingersandtoes | Jul 24, 2008 06:21pm | #1

   There was a pretty good discussion of this going over the merits of various approaches - adding quarter round, etc. a couple of months ago. You might want to use the search function to check it out.

2. 
   TonySD | Jul 24, 2008 06:49pm | #2

   Rip the base to fit over the tile keeping the top of the base the same hieght all the way around.

   I saw it done on T.V. that way...

1. 
   msill74 | Jul 24, 2008 07:04pm | #3

   I was actually thinking of the ripping thing except I don't have a table saw

1. 
   brad805 | Jul 24, 2008 07:13pm | #4

   Unless the tile is perfectly level I doubt the Table saw would be the best tool.  I would hold the trim pieces in place so you can scribe a line to follow.  You can cut with many different tools.  Bandsaw, jigsaw (need good blade), skilsaw...

   Brad

1. 
   msill74 | Jul 24, 2008 07:16pm | #7

   do most people use some type of scribing tool? I've seen a makeshift one with a small piece of wood and a pencil. What do you use?

1. 
   msill74 | Jul 24, 2008 07:24pm | #8

   The other issue is how to get it to go perfectly over the lap I just had installed as it has a design to it and it's just flat. I guess maybe I should have had them only install it up to the thickness of the trim I'm using. I'm wondering if I should cut it down so the molding fits behind it.

2. 
   brad805 | Jul 24, 2008 07:28pm | #9

   I just use a pencil and a block if needed, but there are fancy tools on the market.  I would try and see how it works for you first. 

3. 
   msill74 | Jul 24, 2008 08:26pm | #10

   Here are some pics of the area I'm talking about and the molding I'm using.

   
4. 
   brad805 | Jul 24, 2008 08:38pm | #11

   Pretty standard stuff.  If your trim profile is square at the bottom you could probably use a sharp chiesel to carefully remove the end of the transition to allow the trim to fit.  If you have one of those little japanese saws with a thin kerf you might want to start the cut with that.  If your chiesel is not sharp or you dont use it much, I would scribe the trim as you could damage the transition.  You can always try another piece of trim, but that transition is not easy to replace.  Give it a whirl, you might end up doing it twice, but thats the reality of DIY.

   Brad

5. 
   msill74 | Jul 24, 2008 08:52pm | #12

   Thanks Brad, I have just started into basic woodworking so I do have a couple japanese saws and some decent chisels. I never really thought of trying that. I actually have some small extra pieces of trim that I coud mess around on first. Thanks for the tip.

6. 
   msill74 | Jul 25, 2008 01:30am | #13

   Brad, I finished the project today. I ended up just scribing the baseboard and working it around the transition and it worked fine. Thanks for your help.

2. 
   JeffBuck | Jul 24, 2008 07:16pm | #5

   circular saw ...

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

3. 
   darrel | Jul 25, 2008 07:26am | #16

   "except I don't have a table saw"There's your excuse to get one!

1. 
   msill74 | Jul 25, 2008 08:34am | #18

   i totally agree. I just need the space for it. :)

3. 
   MSLiechty | Jul 24, 2008 07:16pm | #6

   Rip the base down to fit so the top is at the same height throughout the entire area.

   ML

4. 
   Steinmetz | Jul 25, 2008 03:14am | #14

   Temporally tack the base level and equally higher than the existing base material. For the sake of argument, say the base is 5/8 of an inch higher? Select a washer or two and roll the washer along the floor and flat along the base.

   Use a sharp round pencil and press lightly toward the bottom of the washer's hole while continuing across the floor.

   If the line you created is not 5/8" above the tiles, do it again with a bigger washer . With a saber saw,or coping saw,cut along the correct line and back cut a few degrees.(The sharp edge resulting will insure the base will be a near perfect fit.)

   Practice on scrap base till you get 'the hang of it' Steinmetz

   Edited 7/24/2008 8:27 pm ET by Steinmetz

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/24/2008 8:36 pm ET by Steinmetz

1. 
   msill74 | Jul 25, 2008 08:37am | #19

   I's only assuming the washer was your makeshift scribe correct? I have a scribing tool so I just used that. I then cut the waste with my jig saw. It came out really well. Thanks for that tip though. Maybe if I don't have my scribe and I have some washers somewhere that maybe useful to me

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jul 26, 2008 03:34am | #20

   Most scribes, (If not held steadily,) will stray from parallism and give you a false layout
   They should make them with captured rollers in various sizes Steinmetz

   Edited 7/25/2008 8:35 pm ET by Steinmetz

1. 
   DougU | Jul 26, 2008 03:49am | #21

   View Image Pencil Compass/Scriber by General Tools

   Buy new: $4.19 $2.39 In Stock 8 used & new from $2.32

   View Image HF002.81.845 - Hafele - Parallel Scriber by Hafele

   Buy new: $21.23 Usually ships in 6 to 10 days

    

    

   That pair of red scribes by Hafele (yea, Hafele, that's why they're $21.23!!!) does what you want, I use them for 95% of all the scribes that I make. The flat on the back of the one leg really helps keep them parallel through-out the scribe. The Generals above the red ones is what I use for the other 5%.

   Doug

1. 
   adams.dan | Nov 05, 2012 01:39pm | #22

   Hafele Red scribe tool

   The link to amazon to buy this tool is broken. Do you know where I can buy one of these? I had one and lost it and I would like another. Do you have one for sale ?

5. 
   bezgrp | Jul 25, 2008 05:41am | #15

   USE A PLINTH BLOCK BETWEEN TO TWO FLOOR SURFACES WE DO THIS ALL THE TIME .

1. 
   msill74 | Jul 25, 2008 08:34am | #17

   I could only have done that if I cut out a bit of the transition o take the block. I decided to go and scribe the shape and cut it out....it worked out well....thanks for the tip though. May come in useful in the future