i hope you craftsmen out there can answer some crucial questions about my factory primed 1/2 x 7″ clapboard, 5″ exposure. if there is a buttjoint should the edges be primed and then run a small bead of caulk, then push the two pieces together or should i use pl premium or gorilla glue? i think the material is too thin to scarfjoint them. some of the clapboard varies slightly in thickness. so i think using an orbital sander should fix that. how much space where the clapboard meets the cornerboard? for the caulking issue, is dap painterscaulk good enough or dap alex plus much better. any fhb magazines with more info. thanks for all your help past, present and future. i am restoring my 1920 home and i don’t believe in shortcuts. thanks again.
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hello, I have seen both scarf joints and butt joints. In either case I would definately use a quick dry primer on the cut ends. You can then cut small squares of 30# tar pater, about 3"X7". Slip the tar paper under the last piece you nail on and then butt or scarf the next piece in the run. The paper will keep water out if the joint opens up. Caulking the joints is a good idea. Dap makes a 50 year, or is it 30 year Si latex that I like the best. Good luck.
the way i like to put up cedar claps is to butt them over a stud..
and i cut them with a 45 deg. bevel.. you have to make both cuts from the same face in the same direction, because the clapboard is beveled too
then we prime the ends and tight fit them and nail one siding nail thru the top bevel and locking the bottom bevel..
because the cuts run off at a slight angle ( about 10 deg due to the bevel of the clap ).. they actually look more like the joint the colonial siding guys made with their hatchets
we caulk only at vertical trim .. and we leave an 8d nail gap to make room for the caulk