Replies

1. 
   steve | May 10, 2003 09:02pm | #1

   construction adhesive and few tapcons to hold in place until adhesive cures, then remove tapcons

2. 
   Edgar76b | May 11, 2003 05:04pm | #2

   I don't know if your talking about an entire wall or just a portion . I have never glued sheetrock directly to the plaster. I would not be worried about the glue holding.But if you only put a few Tapcons to hold it in place . I would be worried about even pressure to keep the sheet flat against everywhere.

   Not saying I don't think it works. I guess I want to know what you mean by a few? I would like to try it.

   What about Basement walls? I have had situations on estimates, where the prefab stair case is agaist a block wall. I wondered if MRboard, would work like that.

   If you have the room and the time and you could strap it with  lathe or 1x's and sheet over that. If you have a window you will need ext.jambs either way I guess.

   Where there's A wheel there's a way, got any wheels?

3. 
   DaveRicheson | May 11, 2003 08:37pm | #3

   RC (resiliant channel) over the plaster. Tapcon or PAD with shinms as needed for a flat and plumb wall. Since it is commercial, stay at 2'o.c. and drywall with 5/8" f/c. I would be hesitent to glue directly to old plaster over brick or masonary. If it ever seperates or lossens from the brick the drywall goes with it. By using rc attatched through the plaster to the brick you eliminate that potential. You also get 5/8 to 3/4" space to add rigid foam insulation and for the electrition to run his wires to shallow wall boxes. Sinc you are thinking ahead for the owner, may as well think far ahead.

   Dave

1. 
   brianspages | May 12, 2003 05:23am | #4

   I believe that yours is the more conventional approach.  Nothing wrong with furring strips, but the RC is lighter weight.  I checked with the USG website and installation of drywall with adhesive alone is not recommended. 

   The RC channel is the way to go to do the job.  If the channel comes in 10' lengths, then i'll install the upper 10' first, then 1" gap, then the remainder to the floor.  This will allow for running the electrical (seems like it would have to be armored cable or like the rest in conduit.  some kind of plate installed over the gap that I leave).

   Now look at what's happened.  The usual...  One solution often leads to another question.

   Thanks,

   Brian

   Edited 5/12/2003 12:16:24 AM ET by brian smith

1. 
   DaveRicheson | May 12, 2003 02:10pm | #5

   Run the electric in MC cable. It is a prewired flexable metal conduit, available with various wire combination. It is smaller than standard greenfield type flexable armored cable, and sinnce it is prewired, it is faster.

   Dave

1. 
   brianspages | May 13, 2003 05:27am | #6

   Of course, you're right.  Same as on the rest of the job.

   I meant to edit that.

   Wouldn't it need to be fastened to the plater/concrete wall to pass inspection?  At what distances?

   brian