Replies

1. 
   Trim_guy | Mar 14, 1999 11:50pm | #9

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   I agree with Adrian. I use the formica solvent base spray on glue and love it. I've been afraid of the stuff for years, but this new glue is unbelievabe for strenght and speed. You just spray and stick and go home early.

1. 
   Dave_Siewert | Mar 25, 1999 09:30am | #10

   *Why does the laminate expand about a week or two after being layed on new HD press board and everything has stablized for several days in the building before being applied? The expansion rate of a large surface can be 1/8 to 1/16 inch. this makes a sharp edge that people can be cut on. Also some of the joints open up after that perion of time. I use weldwood stink and wilson art.

2. 
   Guest_ | Mar 25, 1999 09:30am | #11

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   Has anyone had success or not in putting new laminate over old in a kitchen instead of replacing the countertops with new ones?

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 23, 1999 05:54pm | #1

   *Did it once in a school renovation in the teacher's lounge. Didn't like doing it, but did it anyways because that's what the plans called for. Sanded down the original top to allow the contact cement to grab and carefully installed a new layer. It's been 6 years and alls well, but I still don't like it, I don't know if this application is more or less sensitive to heat ie. hot pans etc.,I much prefer to replace.

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 24, 1999 04:15am | #2

   *Have done this or had it done several times to various cabinets both vertically and horizontally. Works just as well as bonding to particle board.

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 24, 1999 04:17am | #3

   *Have done this or had it done several times to various cabinets both vertically and horizontally. Works just as well as bonding to particle board. You can't use the water based cement though, just the solvent based material.

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 24, 1999 03:24pm | #4

   *I did it years ago for a hunting lodge. It worked fine. Gabe's right, make sure you scuff the surface.Obviously, this won't work on a textured surface.Blue

2. 
   Guest_ | Feb 24, 1999 09:28pm | #5

   *As everone has said sand with heavy grit paper and clean then clean some more. Have to have a spotless surface to hold the glue more so then on a new top

3. 
   Guest_ | Feb 25, 1999 01:20am | #6

   *Thanks for the advice. I don't like the idea of using solvent based contact cement inside of a home people are living in but they want to save money by not having to rebuild the countertops. Maybe I'll ask them to leave an open can in the house for a few hours and see how they like the smell. I also think the dust from sanding and routing would be pretty nasty.For me I'd spend the extra to keep the work outside.

4. 
   philip_watkins | Mar 12, 1999 05:00am | #7

   *if you leave the can in there for two hours,they'll be so high you could glue them to the counter and they would'nt care. just glue it with a window open and a fan going for ventilation.

5. 
   Guest_ | Mar 12, 1999 05:20pm | #8

   *For what it's worth, me and all the other cabinet type guys in thi area use an aeorosol contact called Sta-Put. It is solvent based but nowhere near as bad as the stuff from the can. All I need is one whiff of that stuff and i have a migraine for three days. It is far and away the best contact I have ever used. The local millwork shop lays up plywood with it, they claim.Mask off your walls in this situation though; it 'webs' from the can.