Replies

1. 
   Mad_Dog | Oct 22, 2000 04:15am | #1

   *
   B,

   Check your floor first. Badly out of level floors may hang up the door or at least look bad if it's a fairly tight fit. Then, try to get your header to be square with the latch side jamb. You'll get some help with adjusting the wheels, so don't make the header out of level if you don't have to. I'd be happy to share some more tips by email if you'd like,

   MD

1. 
   mark_cadioli | Oct 22, 2000 04:56am | #2

   *One big No-No...don't screw or nail off the sheetrock ...kinda embarrisn when you go to close the door!

1. 
   Joe_Fusco_ | Oct 22, 2000 05:03pm | #3

   *B Novick,

   You didn't say whether it's going to be a kit like Johnson or you are going to build it yourself? One thing to remember is that pockets are just big plumb bobs, though you can correct for walls that are not, you should do your best to make should you install or build your frame as plumb as possible. I'm also sorry to say that this is not always possible.If you are going to use a kit the assembly is pretty straight forward. Basically you make an opening the size of the frame kit that matches your door. Just follow the instructions and it should go smoothly. As a note though, make sure you install the steel wrapped studs with the wood side out, facing the drywall and not the door. This is so you can screw the drywall to them. I use 1" screws for 1/2" DW and 1-1/4" for 5/8" DW. I also put the screws every 8". Make sure you install the wood ground at the front door side jamb or you will have a hell or a time nailing on the jamb to finish the door and installing your trim.Building your own is a completely different animal, and if you have never done one I'd go with the kit. . . If you want to make your own then you need to determine what size framing you'll need. If you have the room, 2x6's is always the best, but if it's standard wall you can use 5/4" for the side studs. The most important aspect is to make sure that you install all the framing members in the side walls with their "bows" away for the door. It's far better to have a slight bulge in the wall then a door that is pinched by it's framing.Finally, make sure you route a grove in the bottom of the door to help guide it when moving it in and out of the pocket. Leave a 2' x 2' opening on one side of the door to help fine tune the back stop so you door doesn't go to far in or stick to far out when closed. Good luck.

   View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

1. 
   Mike_Smith | Oct 22, 2000 10:19pm | #4

   *we discussed pocket doors and differnet methods back in june...look here in the archives.. Adrian Wilson "Pocket Doors" 6/29/00 4:41amand this thread was even better... at least as far as my advice went.... Mike Smith "How best to do Pocket Doors" 4/13/00 11:12am

1. 
   FredB | Oct 24, 2000 06:05pm | #5

   *Definitely go for the kit. It is faster and easier, especially for the first time. Also, set up the casing so it can come off easily. At some point someone is going to have to get access to adjust the door. Too often that means tearing things up. That isn't a big deal to us. But it is to the homeowner who has a multiday demo and re-rock or such job when all they wanted to do is adjust the pocket door.

2. 
   SallyJ | Oct 25, 2000 12:51am | #6

   *Hi,I also have a pocket door challenge. I have replaced the foundation, but the settling has presented a tricky problem. There is a 48" x 78" pocket door that no longer closes off the living room from the Front Door. At the top the gap is 3"!! No one can believe it until they see it, and I have yet to find someone who has any experience with something like this. The door is heavy but it slides easily until the last few inches. It appears to be original (1918) with no hardware. I have read all threads on pocket doors and wonder if anyone has taken out an original. I would like to keep the original, but may not be able to, and the opening size almost requires a custom solution. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

3. 
   S_Edwards | Oct 26, 2000 05:22pm | #7

   *May I suggest using only screws, not nails, for all connections? We are not talking new construction here. It will be much easier to unscrew your mistakes. Oh yeah, have a nice dessert waiting when the job is done. Some of these things take half a day.

4. 
   B_Novick | Oct 27, 2000 03:44am | #8

   *I did end up using screws, and it was a good thing after I found out I installed the top track on the bottom of the door frame (OOPS!). I kind of wondered why there were two metal plates covering the track.Anyway, after taking it back apart, I put the whole thing in, including mistake time in about 11/2 hours. I had to tapcon the bottom of the frame to cement slab with radiant heat tubes inside.Barry

5. 
   Bucksnort_Billy | Oct 28, 2000 04:20am | #9

   *Joe, What's with the groove in the bottom of the door, and, the 2x2 openining on one side? I trim out a lot of these, and am ready to throttle the framers. Spill your guts.Baad BocketsBarry, Plumb and level will make everything later easier.

6. 
   Joe_Fusco_ | Oct 28, 2000 01:35pm | #10

   *BB,

   The groove in the bottom of the door is for the guide pin. This prevents the door from moving side to side when opened and not allowing the door to "rub" on the jamb or stops.As for the 2'x2'opening. . . I use it to adjust the door stop on the door. Depending on how you trim the door, the leading edge of the door should be flush with the jamb of door stops. Having the opening lets you fine tune it.

   View Image © 1999-2000"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich W. Nietzsche

7. 
   Barry_Curtis | Oct 29, 2000 02:23am | #11

   *If this is your first to do PLAEASE go with the kit next get a small rubber bumper and put it on the inside so when it close's it want tear it self apart in time i have installed and repaired and replaced MANY to date OLDerwere the best when Craftsmen made them up but today go with the kit Barry

8. 
   blue_eyed_devil_ | Oct 29, 2000 06:59pm | #12

   *Sally, a teensy weensie 3" gap is no big deal for a Master Boogerer. You obviously haven't called any masters to look at your minor dilema.Go the the local Orange box and pick up a case of stout caulk. I'll be over there in an hour to fix you up.blue

9. 
   GACC_DAllas | Nov 01, 2000 04:39am | #13

   *Hey Novick,The kits are crap.......nuff said. But......if you have never installed a pocket door before, the kit is the way to go. We buy Grant rails and trolleys and build our own. On a 2x6 wall we use tube steel to reinforce the sideways 2x's that make the pocket walls. It makes for a thin but sturdy wall. One builder had us use 1 3/4" s/c slab doors for the walls. Nice touch. Pocket doors are not for the beginner, and I feel should be againt the law.Ed. Williams

10. 
    Pro-Dek | Nov 01, 2000 07:58am | #14

    *The new steel and wood kits are not crap. Make sure the roller kit for the door has 3-4 rollers that straddle the track. This will eliminate the door from jumping the track. The frame is fastened with the kit on the floor, rail plumb, opened end top screwed to jam/stud. Then fir out from rough cut opening so the back of the door box can be screwed solid to the stud to which the door slams against. Fir out the header and screw it for this carries the weight of the door.Install back rubber bumper stop for door. Use 1" drywall screws to fasten your sheet rock . Install "finished" door, with pull.Trim out opening with 1x2 top first, then pocket trim and then 1x 4 9/16"jam. Good Luck!

11. 
    blue_eyed_devil_ | Nov 03, 2000 04:43am | #15

    *ed. why do you think they should be outlawed?I don't like them, so I'll vote for outlawing them.blue

12. 
    wood_doctor | Nov 12, 2000 04:16am | #16

    *thats another vote to outlaw pocket doors. Not as hard but just the same for bypass doors. Only for the reason of them being a royal pain..

2. 
   B_Novick | Nov 12, 2000 04:16am | #17

   *
   I will be installing a new pocket door in a new location of a kitchen wall in a remodel next week. I have never done this before, although I have installed numerous prehung doors. Is this much dirrerent than a standard prehung door (other than the jamb/frame is much different)? Should I be looking for something on the rough intall that will make life easier on the final if I do it now? I do know my finished floor height with 3/4'' oak.

   Thanks for any help1

   Barry