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I intend to install wood flooring in the 2nd floor of an older house. The subfloor is tongue and grooved pine boards. I would like to minimize the weight of the new flooring so that it does not significantly increase the load on the joists. Therfore, I have been considering 3/8″ solid wood flooring (Launstein) and 9/16″ laminated wood flooring (Nordic American’s Rappago and Lamella). I’m interested in talking to anyone who has had experience with either of these or other similar products. I would like to lay the flooring perpendicular to the run of the subflooring for aesthetic reasons-Are there any problems with this? What are the pros/cons of nailing the flooring (thru the tongue) as opposed to gluing? Also, how can I best make a stair tread bullnose where the new flooring meets the top of the stairs?
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I asked a question about this 3/8 vs. 3/4 flooring over on the Fine Woodworking forum (I think). You can do a search to follow that thread. I think a fair summary is don't use the 3/8 stuff, but spend the extra $$ and use the 3/4 for extra value, life, etc. --Ken
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I intend to install wood flooring in the 2nd floor of an older house. The subfloor is tongue and grooved pine boards. I would like to minimize the weight of the new flooring so that it does not significantly increase the load on the joists. Therfore, I have been considering 3/8" solid wood flooring (Launstein) and 9/16" laminated wood flooring (Nordic American's Rappago and Lamella). I'm interested in talking to anyone who has had experience with either of these or other similar products. I would like to lay the flooring perpendicular to the run of the subflooring for aesthetic reasons-Are there any problems with this? What are the pros/cons of nailing the flooring (thru the tongue) as opposed to gluing? Also, how can I best make a stair tread bullnose where the new flooring meets the top of the stairs?