Replies

1. 
   JeffBuck | Mar 11, 2007 08:04am | #1

   don't even "rough" it ...

   mastic sticks fine to painted drywall.

   and a backsplash shouldn't be a "wet location" unless U set a small dog on the countertop and hose him down with the sink sprayer ...

    

   I hate mastic ... way inferior product to pretty much any thinset ...

   and mastic is what I use 99 outta 100 times for a tile backsplash.

    

   Jeff

       Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   barmil | Mar 11, 2007 08:24am | #2

   Agree with Jeff. Mastic is okay for wall applications because it keeps the tiles from sliding. But you could use Liquid Nails applied to the tiles as well. Not a really challenging situation.

2. 
   DanH | Mar 11, 2007 04:10pm | #3

   Yeah, most tile mastics (and mastic is all you need for a backsplash) will stick well to painted drywall. It does need to be grease-free, of course.

   The hard part is getting the graffiti off the tile.

   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
1. 
   zak | Mar 12, 2007 03:25am | #14

   The hard part is getting the graffiti off the tile.

   I find it easiest to scrub the tiles clean before removing them from subway station walls.  True, you'll get some funny looks, but I think it's worth it.

   Also, I think that removing the tiles from the subway is more difficult than removing the graffiti from the tiles.zak

   "When we build, let us think that we build forever.  Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin

   "so it goes"

    

3. 
   FastEddie | Mar 11, 2007 05:27pm | #4

   The only problem you will have is extending the outlets and switches so they are the correct depth.

   "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   rez | Mar 11, 2007 09:23pm | #5

   Wouldn't just longer set screws work easily in this situation seeing the added depth is minimal and the  added tile thickness is not a combustible product? 

    

   every court needs a jester

1. 
   DanH | Mar 11, 2007 11:44pm | #7

   Practically, yes, it works fine and is perfectly safe to just use longer screws in most cases.  It isn't quite code, but if that's the worst code violation in your house you're ahead of 90% of the homes built.
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

2. 
   Mongo | Mar 11, 2007 09:38pm | #6

   There are a few variants of box extenders, from these fixed-depth ones: View Imageto ones like this:View Imagethat "sleeve" inside the existing box and can be used to extend the face of the box from zero to about 1-1/2".

   There are also metal sleeved ones, if I use those I wrap a couple rounds of electrical tape around the switch or outlet to cover the screw heads.Mongo

1. 
   FastEddie | Mar 11, 2007 11:59pm | #8

   How do you fix the depth of the white sleeve?  Or actually I guess the ears rest on the face of the tile.  My house, the bozos overcut the sheetrock and set the boxes too deep, so the outlet moves everytime you plug or unplug.

   And who makes the white one?

   "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

   Edited 3/11/2007 4:59 pm ET by FastEddie

1. 
   Mongo | Mar 12, 2007 12:39am | #10

   If overcut as you describe with no way of mending/patching the overcut rock, consider using a short length of rigid tubing (1/4" or 3/8" diameter, length as required) between the existing box and the outlet/switch.You'll need a longer screw than what you're now using due ot the added length of the tubing.That should keep your existing outlets from gettin' jiggy when you plug/unplug things into them.The white sleeve I linked to is from here: http://www.smarthomeusa.com/ShopByManufacturer/Arlington/Item/BE1/Mongo

2. 
   BillHartmann | Mar 12, 2007 01:01am | #12

   There are all kinds of spacers like the tubing that mongo suggested.But there is a commercial product that I really like. It is Ideal/Buchanan Catapillars.It is a plastic strip with holes in it. Sorta looks like the edges torn off fanfold paper.Each section is 1/8". You break off as long a strip as you need and then fold it and it locks to gether. The holes are arranged so that they form a notch when folded and can be put on a screw that is aread in place.Lowes and other places has them..
   .
   A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

1. 
   Mongo | Mar 12, 2007 01:45am | #13

   Kewl!Never heard of those before, I'll look for them. thanks Bill

2. 
   calvin | Mar 12, 2007 02:06pm | #15

   I think an electrician with a young child invented them.  Leggo like.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

2. 
   billyt | Mar 12, 2007 12:34am | #9

   Thanks for that bit of info Mongo..extending the boxes is something I had not yet considered. Now all I have to do is try and find one of those items here in Ontario..possibly HD.Bill

1. 
   Mongo | Mar 12, 2007 12:41am | #11

   Bill, I've seen the fixed-depth plastic ones and the adjustable metal sleeved ones in HD here in Connecticut.Mongo

2. 
   user-73429 | Mar 12, 2007 02:46pm | #16

   Hd in Canada has them, at least here on the prairies they do.

1. 
   billyt | Mar 12, 2007 05:10pm | #17

   Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for them next time at HD. I have a few to choose from so at least one store should have them.Bill

4. 
   BryanSayer | Mar 12, 2007 06:25pm | #18

   Be sure to wipe away any mastic that gets on an area that you are not tiling before it sets up. If it hardens, you won't get it off.

   Don't ask me how I know this.

1. 
   DanH | Mar 12, 2007 06:35pm | #19

   Oh, you can get it off. It's just a question of what else comes with it.(But it is important to read the label and see what solvent is needed, so you can have it available. Some mastics will clean up fairly well with water, others need a petroleum solvent.)
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

2. 
   JeffBuck | Mar 12, 2007 06:36pm | #20

   mastic comes off with a damp sponge ....  ?

   or just lightly scrape with a utility knife ...

    

    

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   BryanSayer | Mar 12, 2007 07:31pm | #21

   Yes, WHEN WET. That was my mistake. I let it cure.

1. 
   JeffBuck | Mar 12, 2007 08:12pm | #22

   I've yet to have a problem removing mastic that's a day or so "old".

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

3. 
   user-73429 | Mar 14, 2007 01:33am | #23

   Don't ask me how I know this.

   How many times do we all say this, and how true it is.  Kinda goes with the saying "Learn from the mistakes of others, you'll never live long enough to make them all yourself!"   ; )

1. 
   BryanSayer | Mar 14, 2007 06:16pm | #25

   After this many years of evolution, it seems like we should be pretty much perfect, if we actually followed this advice.

5. 
   arnemckinley | Mar 14, 2007 03:28am | #24

   whatever you use whether it be mastic or thinset, make sure you use a smaller notched trowel for application when installing any small sheated tile. if you don't you will watch thinset ooze out of the tile joints.