if you have to seam cedarboards do you cut both on a 45 degree angle because of water, the 1×6 t&g clear cedar boards are being installed vertical, thanks for any help
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Low-e storm panels improve the energy efficiency of these old sash windows without changing their classic look.
Featured Video
Highlights
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
Fine Home Building
Follow
-
Fine Homebuilding
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial Now -
GBA Prime
Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
If not a straight horiz. line where I'd use z-flashing........
.............or a nice looking water table detail.
then I would bevel (whatever stop's 30-45 were on my scms) and seal the cuts. I think I'd slather titebond 3 on the joint-seal and if lucky-glue up in one step.
Not a great detail running it like that-water entry in the T&G is tough to prohibit. Make sure ALL sides back etc are sealed/primed/finished (pick one).
Later thought: I'd think something 22.5 or 30-less surface area of end cut, yet would still try to shed water. And don't forget, the uphill board would bevel OVER the lower. Believe me, I've seen some failures where it was the opposite-like an open mouth looking for a drink.