Replies

1. 
   Mad_Dog | Sep 10, 1999 05:48pm | #1

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   The answer, is yes. It is possible. Is it a good idea?
   Maybe, but probably not. I usually end up pulling out stuff
   like this, get down to actual framing material. Reasons:
   you won't have to worry about someone else's work causing
   yours to look bad or fail. You can use nails, and better
   install things like toilet paper holders, etc. in a more
   conventional way. You will have better corners and edges if
   you nail it than use adhesive (your only alternative). I
   just believe that this would be the right thing to do.

   Shouldn't be a big job getting the tiles off, although be
   prepared for surprises when you do.

   Last reason: any rot or other problems under the tile will
   be more evident and now available for you to repair.

   Good Luck,

2. 
   Guest_ | Sep 11, 1999 05:01am | #2

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   I second MadDog's response, this is the preferred method. However, I've another option: drill throught the tile (or pop that tile off completely) and set into the hole a plastic screw anchor. Do this every 18" or so along the length of the wall where the beaded ply will go. Two lines of holes along the wall length; one at the shoe, one where the cap moulding will go. Hang your ply on these. Moulding will cover the screws.

   When it's time to do the serious thing, it's an easy tear-out. Also, with this method you can straighten an untrue wall.

3. 
   Mad_Dog | Sep 14, 1999 06:37pm | #3

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   I wonder if Rich's suggestion could be modified further.
   Assuming studs could easily be located, instead of the
   plastic anchors (I'm not a big fan of them), locate the
   studs above the tile line, plumb down, drill holes o.c. and
   fasten new panels with good screws (if you need to
   straighten wall sections) or nails if you don't. Then just
   have to deal with the screws/nails as usual.

   Again though, this may end up more trouble than the small
   time saved by not tearing old stuff out.

   MD

4. 
   Guest_ | Sep 22, 1999 09:26am | #4

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   Is the the tile set in thick mortar? Demo could be quite something if it is. On the other hand, you will have an excellent masonry base for screw anchors.

   Be sure to seal/paint the (Ply-Bead?) carefully to protect it from bathroom moisture.

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 26, 1999 07:20am | #5

   *Do not attach the wainscote to the wall. It needs to move like the panel of a door. Trap the wainscote on the top and bottom with a 1/2 rabbet. In the rabbet lay a foam backer rod, (the type used for caulking). The panels need to move,especially in a wet area.

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 27, 1999 02:56am | #6

   *Which ever way you attach the wainscoting, seal the six sides of each board with a primer before installation and then touch up the heads of the fasteners and any fresh saw cuts with the primer before the finishing coats are added.

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 24, 1999 10:54pm | #8

   *Have used the 3/8 wainscoting and the milled plywood (GP) both were great. Both should be installed over a minimum 1/2" drywall. The wainscote has to sit proud so the chair rail detail can cap it. With the ply. panels, I would back & edge prime in a bath location, also , hold it up 1/2" from floor so it doesn't wick. If you don't have blocking, then you should glue and nail it at every stud. I don't think panel movement is a problem with the plywood and it certainly isn't with the 3/8 x 3 stock (which gets blindnailed thru the tongue). The panels don't butt, they lap with a rabbet, so that is what takes care of the side expansion / contraction . Backpriming and edge priming also reduces the change in moisture content , which is what is causing the expansion / contraction anyway.I would vote for taking the tile off the wall and rough patching any damage just so the panel will install flat.When you install your baseboard, put a 4d finish nail spacer under it so you will leave a caulk joint, then caulk the joint with a good bathroom caulk like Phenoseal. This will give you a good cut-in line for your painter and also keep the baseboard from wicking from the wet floor (it is a bathroom , right ?)

5. 
   joereiss | Oct 24, 1999 10:54pm | #7

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   I'm planning on putting beadboard wainscoting in my 1963 vintage 1/2 bathroom, using the plywood with the bead detail milled into it. The walls presently have ceramic tile installed to a height of 38". Is it possible to bond the plywood to the ceramic tile ?

   thanks for the help.