I am currently removing an old wood floor from an old house and putting it in my new house. I have two concerns with how to install the new floor. My house is a slab on grade and I’m assuming there isn’t a vapor barrier below the slab. This makes me a little leary of installing the wood right on the slab cause I’ve seen what can happen in that case and I don’t want cupped floors. The other concern is that I’ve broken some of the tongues a little bit and I’m wondering if there is a way to still install these without always worrying if it’s going to move. I was thinking about just placing a vapor barrier or sound deadener on top of the slab and just glueing the wood together but I would like to know if there’s a better option out there.
Thanks to anyone who can help.
Replies
even if there was a vapour barrier under the slab thee would still be moisture coming from the concrete which would affect the wood. If you are gluing this floor together i wonder if you need glue made by this company http://www.robertsconsolidated.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=dsp_content&subaction=dsp_dist
apparently they make glue that moves or stays flexible with the wood.. also maybe you need tar paper under the floor with overlapped seams etc..
fairban,
I don't know why people try to salvage and re-install strip flooring, especially to install it in a new house..... unless it is wide plank antique... your time must be worth so little, I can't imagine how the trouble can be worth it....anyway...
The only method used install 3/4 solid strip or plank flooring over concrete is by installing plywood subfloor over a 5 mil plastic vapor barrier. The plywood needs to be ripped to 16" widths and installed 4" on ctr. with a pnuematic concrete nailer. There are many variations of the plywood subfloor. Some contractors use 3/4" some use 2 sheets of 1/2" or 3/8". There are just as many ways to install a vapor barrier. Some glue the the ply with mastic in addition to nailing. Either way expect elevation issues.
IMO, solid wood flooring shouldn't be installed on a slab...there is just too much potential for failure.
Once the tongues/grooves are broken the flooring is no longer servicable. All the old dirt and finish needs to be cleaned from the t&g's or the floor won't fit together properly. The tounges have been stressed during removal so the likelyhood of breaking them increases during re-installation.
Suggesting "glueing" the floor together and floating it over the slab indicates a lack of knowledge pertaining to wood floors and "water and wood". What your asking of this used flooring would be a challenge for even the most seasoned wood floor pro.
Havn't you ever heard of a 'floating floor'?
I'm gonna assume that you are either joking... or have no idea what the definiion of "floating floor" is.