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Another problem with this is that you double the weight of the glass, and hence the need to increase the counterweights, which there may not be room to do.
Most of the air leakage is through the gaps that exist between the window and the frame. I’ve restored a bunch of windows in my current house, and have had pretty good success using the copper insulating strips to cut down or elimiate drafts. There is also a company that creates a solution for this problem, a plastic/bristle strip that you insert into routed groove down the side of the window. If you’re still looking for answers let me know and I’ll try and dig up their info.
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Another problem with this is that you double the weight of the glass, and hence the need to increase the counterweights, which there may not be room to do.
Most of the air leakage is through the gaps that exist between the window and the frame. I've restored a bunch of windows in my current house, and have had pretty good success using the copper insulating strips to cut down or elimiate drafts. There is also a company that creates a solution for this problem, a plastic/bristle strip that you insert into routed groove down the side of the window. If you're still looking for answers let me know and I'll try and dig up their info.
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From what I've read about insulated glass and air leakeage from the rest of the house, the single panes in an older home are the least of the problems. I read one article where the "expert", who ever it was they made sense to me at the time?, recommended just reglazing and foam all around the windows/doors, amd outlets. Don't know it this logic would hold up when applied to new construction, doubt it, but seems to make sense for remodeling. Any one have any ideas on this, other than my foggy memory? Jeff
*Several companys make sash replacement kits. You leave your old frames and install a vinyl jamb liner and new insulated sashes. Then you can ditch the weights and fill the weight pocket with the insulation of your choice.Chuck
*Yo Chuck: I got new Kolbe & Kolbe sashes coming for the upstairs of this house, maybe they'll look so good I can talk everybody into using them downstairs, too.
*Lonecat, you make it to Arkansas yet? If so, where you be? (I be in Batesville)
*Lonecat - You're gonna like them, and their sash kits are nice, too. Very easy to install and look good.
*Batesville, isn't that where they make caskets? I'll look on the map. We got Steven over in Jonesboro, and there was a guy posting from Hot Springs but haven't seen him lately. Chuck is right over in Oklahoma. I'm in Eureka Springs, dealing with a Historic District Commission which takes their jobs very seriously- hence the question above.
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There's a company based in Mass that will bring a truck to the site, remove the sash and glass, repair sashes, rout space for the double pane insulated glass, remove the counterweights, insulate, etc. Had it done and the results were nice and neat. It lowered both air and sound infiltration significantly. Best thing was the house was in a historic district and this process didn't run afoul of the historic restrictions. New windows would have caused a problem.
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Jim: Do you know enough computer to post a photo? (I sure don't.)
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I'd be happy to post a picture, but I don't have one and the house is
606 miles away. But I found their web site: http://www.bi-glass.com.
The thing I liked best was that you couldn't easily see a
difference--their work is really subtle.
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Has anybody done this? It looks like you could plow out the rabbit deep enough for the thin kind, but you'd be removing a lot of wood and then there wouldn't hardly be room for your DAP.
*lonecat, yeh i thot about it .. but it always seemed like the road to disaster..besides who you gonna get to make up the custom insulated sizes you need, and what could possibly make it worth it?all the restoration work around here , if they are redoing the sash.. they dupe the historically correct, and add an appropriate wooden storm window in season...